“Here lies a history lesson” I read on a faded sign. This is the Western Road Christian Cemetery. It is one of Penang’s oldest cemeteries.
The Western Road Christian Cemetery was set up in the 1890s. This happened after the Northam Road Cemetery closed. Concerns about public health prompted the move. Many had died from tropical diseases like malaria. The British decided to shift the cemetery further from George Town. The Northam Road Cemetery was full. A new cemetery was set up along Western Road. It was a distance away from the trading port.
The Western Road Christian Cemetery is still in use. You see vacant plots and a columbarium as space becomes scarce. The cemetery is divided into two sections. One is Catholic and the other Protestant.
Many graves here date back to the 1890s. You will notice many are of young children. They are often marked by statues of cherubs and angels. Many children arrived with their British parents. Sadly they succumbed to tropical diseases. Typhoid and malaria were common. Over 20000 Christians were laid to rest here.
Perhaps the most famous grave is Andrew Duncan’s. He died at 43 in 1931. Little is known of Duncan. However, a striking white marble sculpture of a dog draws attention. The marble still gleams despite the elements. The sculpted dog is realistic. Its rippling muscles make you think a real dog is lying there.
The marble dog has spawned romantic stories. These are similar to Japan’s Hachiko. Duncan’s widow Evelyn Mary commissioned the statue from Italy. It was a symbol of her late husband’s love for his dog. Evelyn clarified this in 1974. The statue was of her husband’s loyal pet. He was a manager at the Sungpara Estate.
Near Duncan’s grave lies Arshak Sarkies. Arshak was one of the Sarkies brothers. They were top hoteliers of the East. Their hotels dominated the hospitality industry. This lasted for almost 50 years. Tigran and Martin Sarkies set up the Eastern and Oriental Hotel. It was later shortened to the E&O Hotel. Arshak joined the hotel in the late 1890s. Arshak took charge of the E&O. He was known for his generosity. He often helped friends in need. He lent money to friends travelling back to England. During the Great Depression business was bad. Yet he remained generous. He even let patrons stay and eat for free. This earned the E&O the nickname “eat and owe”. Arshak died in 1931. He was in debt. His widow and daughter were evicted from the hotel. The property was sold to settle his debts.
Another notable person buried here is John Saint Maur Ramsden. He was the eldest son of a baronet. Ramsden was managing director of the Penang Rubber Estates. He built a grand mansion. It was called Caledonia House. He was killed at the mansion in 1948. There are stories behind his death. Some say he was killed by Communist guerrillas. Others say rubber estate workers killed him. No one was ever charged. It is believed his widow committed suicide. Stories of ghost sightings surround the mansion.
The Western Road Christian Cemetery also remembers the Battle of Penang. The Russian ship Zhemchug was attacked in 1914. 88 Russian sailors died. Only about 10 are buried here. There is a memorial for the sailors. You will see it by the anchor on a chain.
The Armenians of Penang are also remembered. All Armenian graves were relocated here. Arathoon Anthony is a well-known Armenian buried here. He founded the stockbroking firm AA Anthony and Co. One of Penang’s roads is named after him. It is called Arratoon Road.
More than 100 British soldiers are buried here. They were killed during the Emergency between 1948 and 1960. A large memorial lists their names near the entrance.
A visit to the Western Road Christian Cemetery is a walk back in time. It connects us to Penang’s rich history. It reminds us of the lives lived and lost here. Remember to bring mosquito repellent.