“Villejuif? Where is that?” I hear you ask. Villa d’Amont is not actually in Paris, but in Villejuif, France. It is a villa.
Let me tell you what I know about villas in France. The word “Villa” is often used in France to mean a gated community. It is not just a free-standing house. I once peeped through the gate of Villa Mozart in Passy. I was impressed at the time. It turns out that Villa Mozart is a poverty zone compared to Villa Montmorency.
Villa Montmorency has over a hundred luxurious mansions for the ultra-rich. In 1822, the Duchess of Montmorency bought a ten-hectare tract of land in Auteuil. Auteuil was not yet a part of Paris at that time. In 1852, her heirs sold the land to Emile Pereire. He was a businessman and real estate investor. Pereire subdivided the land. He developed it as an exclusive neighborhood for the wealthy. He named it Villa Montmorency. He named it after its former owners. Theirs was one of the most prestigious names in French history.
In the 21st century, there were reports in the French media about a crisis in Villa Montmorency. Bertrand Delanoë was the mayor of Paris from 2001 to 2014. He wanted to overcome the city’s social divide. He planned to build subsidized housing for the poor in all 20 districts of the city. This included rich districts like the 7th and the 16th. Auteuil is one of the four quarters of the 16th arrondissement.
Construction of a subsidized apartment building was planned. It would be on the site of the former Auteuil railway station. It was within sight of the Villa Montmorency. Lawsuits by the wealthy citizenry blocked it for several years. In 2015, construction was underway again.
At that time, real estate agencies listed mansions in Villa Montmorency for sale. They were at inflated prices. Some people thought the owners were trying to reduce their French taxes. They claimed to live in other countries. They were putting their mansions up for sale to convince the French tax authorities.
Two years later, the subsidized housing project was finished. Poor people populated it. They turned out to be perfectly orderly residents. Their more affluent neighbors barely noticed them.
There is a speed limit of 25 km/h in Villa Montmorency. Rich motorists in France typically drive faster through other people’s neighborhoods.
The signs at the entrance of Villa Montmorency state rules. Circulation of pedestrians and vehicles is reserved for residents. It is also reserved for their visitors or their authorized suppliers. Offenders may be prosecuted. Their vehicles may be immobilized. It is private property and entry is forbidden.
Across the street, there is a real estate agency called “La Villa Montmorency.” It offers advice and free estimates in French. It also offers “Luxury French Properties” in English. Perhaps they meant “luxurious”?
While walking around the outside of the Villa Montmorency, I came across Rue Pierre Guérin. On a house at number 38, there is a plaque in English and Russian. Oddly enough, there is no plaque in French. It identifies the house as the final residence of Prince Felix Felixovich Yusupov. The plaque gives his full name, titles, and dates. It omits juicy details. He had a habit of cross-dressing. He was involved in the murder of Grigori Efimovich Rasputin in December 1916.
The stone wall on the right is one of the outer walls of the Villa Montmorency. So, while Villa d’Amont itself may seem quiet, its surroundings have stories to tell.