A wave of incense perfumes the air. This is Vihara Kuante a place steeped in history. But it’s not the Vihara Kuante you might expect.
Vihara Kuante isn’t actually the oldest Chinese temple in Jakarta. That honor belongs to Vihara Dharma Bhakti also known as Kim Tek Ie Temple. This temple in Glodok boasts a history stretching back to 1650. It was first built under the direction of Lieutenant der Chinezen Kwee Hoen. He named it Kwan Im Teng a name that eventually became the root of the word klenteng.
Tragedy struck in 1740. A massacre claimed many lives and the temple burned to the ground. However it was rebuilt in 1755 under the leadership of Kapitein der Chinezen Oey Tji Lo. It received the name Kim Tek Ie. The Kong Koan a semi-autonomous organization for the Chinese community oversaw its restoration and maintenance. The Kong Koan also managed other Chinese temples in Batavia.
After Indonesian independence the Kong Koan was dissolved. The Dewan Wihara Indonesia or DEWI took over. They recommended a name change in 1965. Vihara Dharma Bhakti became the official name a nationalistic effort to replace foreign-sounding names.
Sadly in 2015 a fire devastated Vihara Dharma Bhakti. A tarpaulin near candles ignited destroying the roof and many sculptures. The temple remains a site of ongoing restoration and rebuilding. But the spirit of Vihara Dharma Bhakti lives on.
Vihara Dharma Bhakti is the heart of Chinese celebrations in Jakarta. The Zhong Yuan Festival and the Lantern Festival are major events. During colonial times Peranakan Chinese opera was performed annually alongside Batavian kroncong music. It is a vital part of Jakarta’s cultural heritage.
Although not the Vihara Kuante you may have initially envisioned this story illustrates the resilience and cultural significance of Jakarta’s oldest Chinese temple. It’s a story of loss rebuilding and enduring tradition a story written in the very stones and incense of Vihara Dharma Bhakti.