“Trans-ambulare,” what does it mean to pass through? This is the question I want you to keep in mind as we begin our exploration of Vieux Lyon. Vieux Lyon or Old Lyon is Lyon’s oldest district. It is a place where time seems to slow down.
In 1964, Vieux Lyon became the first site in France to be protected under the Malraux law. This law sought to preserve France’s cultural sites. Later, in 1998, UNESCO inscribed Vieux Lyon on its World Heritage List. This was due to its historical importance and stunning architecture.
Vieux Lyon is one of Europe’s most extensive Renaissance neighborhoods. It covers 424 hectares between the Fourvière hill and the Saône river. The area comprises three distinct sections. These are Saint Jean, Saint Paul, and Saint Georges. Each has its own unique character and history.
Let’s begin in Saint Jean. In the Middle Ages, it was the heart of political and religious power. Here, you will find the Cathedral of St Jean. This is the seat of the archbishop of Lyon who is also known as the Primate of Gaul. Admire the cathedral’s Gothic architecture. Nearby stands the Manécanterie. It is one of Lyon’s few remaining Romanesque buildings. It once served as a choir school. Today, it houses the museum of the cathedral’s treasures. Also in Saint Jean, visit the Museum of Miniatures and Film Sets. It is located in a 15th-century building that was once the Golden Cross Inn.
Next, we venture into Saint-Paul. During the 15th and 16th centuries, this area was home to Italian banker-merchants. They resided in sumptuous urban residences called hôtels particuliers. Hôtel Bullioud and Hôtel de Gadagne are two fine examples. The Hôtel de Gadagne now houses the Lyon Historical Museum and the International Puppet Museum. The Loge du Change stands as a reminder of the city’s wealthy trade fair period. The Saint Paul church marks the section’s northern end. Notice its Romanesque lantern tower and spire.
Finally, we arrive in Saint Georges. From the 16th century, silk weavers settled here. Later, in the 19th century, they moved to the Croix Rousse hill. In 1844, the architect Pierre Bossan rebuilt St George’s Church. It stands on the banks of the Saône in a neo-Gothic style. Saint Georges is known for its traboules. These corridors pass through buildings and courtyards. They connect one street directly to another. The word traboule comes from the Latin trans-ambulare. Many galleries and spiral staircases remain in these traboules.
As we wander through Vieux Lyon, notice the architectural details. Some windows still have their mullions. These are the vertical stones that divide the window in two. The Chamarier House is one of the few 14th-century buildings still standing in Vieux Lyon. It was home to the Chamarier. He oversaw security, justice, and town planning.
Don’t miss the well in the courtyard. It is said that Philibert de l’Orme designed it. He was a famous Lyonnais architect.
Vieux Lyon is more than just a collection of old buildings. It is a living, breathing testament to Lyon’s rich history. As you explore its streets and traboules, you are walking through centuries of art, culture, and commerce.