“A magnificent assembly of extravagance.” That’s how Vauban described the citadel of Marseille. Let’s explore the story of Vauban in Marseille.
Vauban, a name synonymous with military engineering, ironically critiqued this very fort. Yet, his presence in Marseille is deeply intertwined with its history. The Fort Saint-Nicolas overlooks the Vieux Port. It stands as a testament to Marseille’s rebellious spirit and Louis XIV’s determination to control it.
Back in the 17th century, Marseille was a city known for its independent streak. Louis XIV saw this as a threat. He ordered the construction of Fort Saint-Nicolas between 1660 and 1664. The fort was built to keep Marseille in check. The Chevalier de Clerville was the architect behind this imposing structure.
But here’s a twist. The site had been significant long before Louis XIV. A small chapel dedicated to Saint Nicholas stood here in the Middle Ages, from 1150 to 1218. It was part of the Abbey of Saint Victor. In 1322, a wooden palisade was erected near the chapel to control access to the port. This palisade evolved into two bridge piles by 1381. The Saint Nicholas chapel was expanded. It gained a defensive wall stretching to the port’s chain.
An attack by King Alphonse V of Aragon exposed the defense’s weakness. The Aragonese landed nearby. They captured the chapel from the rear. Catalan galleys entered the port. The city was looted for three days. The port chain was taken as a trophy. It remains on display in Valencia’s cathedral in Spain.
Rebellions continued. To regain control, Duke de Mercœur appointed Lazare de Vento as consul in 1657. This decision sparked riots led by Gaspard de Glandevès de Niozelles. King Louis XIV intervened. He ordered the construction of a citadel to ensure his authority.
Clerville chose this location. It allowed surveillance of the city and protection from sea attacks. He rejected Saint-Charles hill as too distant for supplies. Mazarin initially hesitated. He sent Maréchal du Plessis-Praslin for a second opinion. Despite some initial disagreement, Clerville’s plan was approved.
Construction began swiftly. Materials came from the demolition of the Porte Royale and old city walls. Stone from Cap Couronne was also used. The Duke of Mercœur laid the first stone. The inscription warned against sedition and excessive liberty. It declared the king’s intention to secure the city. Commemorative medals were struck. By 1661, as Louis XIV entered Marseille, the construction was in full swing.
The main structure was completed quickly. Master mason Jean Étienne Chieuse finished the high fort by 1663. Work on the lower fort stopped with Mazarin’s death. It restarted in 1662. Pierre Puget, a cousin of the sculptor, was among the masons. It concluded in 1664.
Vauban wasn’t involved in the initial construction. After visiting the fort, he wrote a scathing critique. He described it as a collection of extravagant and ridiculous ideas. In 1701, Vauban suggested modifications. They were never implemented.
Over time, the fort’s role shifted. During the French Revolution, there was a fear that the fort held excess munitions. In 1823, it became a prison. It housed prisoners from the Spanish expedition. Later, it held sailors involved in a royalist plot.
Jean Giono, the writer, was imprisoned here. He recalled his cell in his novel “Noé.” Other notable prisoners included Jean Zay and Habib Bourguiba. Today, the fort is divided. The lower part, Fort Ganteaume, houses a military circle. The upper part, Fort d’Entrecasteaux, is being restored by ACTA VISTA. This association focuses on heritage trades and eco-construction.
Since December 2021, “La Citadelle de Marseille” has managed Fort d’Entrecasteaux. Their mission is to restore and open it to the public. In May 2024, the citadel opened its doors for the first time. It stands as a place of culture and innovation. It links citizens to their history.
The story of Vauban in Marseille isn’t just about military architecture. It’s a tale of rebellion, royal ambition, and the enduring spirit of a city.