Wandering through the city, have you ever stumbled upon a place where nature and history intertwine? That place is Vallon de Saint-Cyr. It is a mountainous area bordering Marseille.
Vallon de Saint-Cyr is part of the larger Massif de Saint-Cyr. This massif is one of the mountain ranges bordering Marseille. It lies north of the calanques of Marseille. Mont Carpiagne is its highest point at 645 meters. It is also the highest point in the Calanques National Park.
Most of the Massif de Saint-Cyr is in Marseille. It spans the 9th, 10th, and 11th arrondissements. The northeast part is shared by La Penne-sur-Huveaune and Aubagne.
The heart of the massif resembles a pyramid. It has two peaks close to each other. These are Carpiagne at 645 meters and Saint-Cyr at 610 meters. They are separated by the Col Sabatier at 513 meters. The peak of Saint-Cyr is most visible from Marseille. It gives its name to the massif.
To the east, Mont Lantin stands at 570 meters. Its north-facing slope has a unique feature. A small forest of Montpellier maple and whitebeam grows there. This is a remnant of a once larger deciduous forest.
Several secondary peaks border the massif to the north. Mont Sainte-Croix is at 319 meters. It rises above the Saint-Tronc district. The Rocher de la Croix is at 302 meters. It overlooks Saint-Marcel. Candolle reaches 404 meters above La Penne-sur-Huveaune. The Télégraphe is at 321 meters. It is above La Penne-sur-Huveaune and Aubagne.
An interesting break in the landscape lies to the southwest. It is evocatively named the Chinese Wall. To the east, the massif extends into hills with marked reliefs. They stretch to the edge of the Var department.
The Massif de Saint-Cyr consists entirely of limestone rocks. It is carved with many small valleys. These valleys form a star-like network around the peaks. However, none of them has a constant stream of water. Water flows only after heavy rains. The only mapped spring is the Source des Eaux-Vives. It is high in the Vallon de la Barasse. It rarely flows.
The area was once abundant with woods and scrubland. Most of this disappeared between the 19th and 20th centuries. Grazing herds, wood for lime kilns, and fires destroyed it. The remaining vegetation is sparse. It includes gorse, kermes oak, and rosemary. The soil is stony and dry. Some conifers or deciduous trees grow in the valley bottoms.
Despite fires, remnants of unique plant life exist on the north faces of Carpiagne and Saint Cyr. This includes the association of Lobel’s broom. Also present are Cels’ tulip, tuberous valerian, and feather grass. Barberry is a rare shrub in lower Provence also found here. The summit of Mont Carpiagne reaches the lower limit of the supramediterranean zone. This zone features downy oak, serviceberry, and ash trees.
Due to its limestone nature and rugged terrain, human settlement is limited. Until the early 20th century, it was mainly pasture land. Some ruins of sheepfolds and cultivated terraces remain. Only the Vallon de la Bégude still has significant farming. It is enclosed within the Carpiagne military area. Remnants of old quarries exist. There is an unexpected marble quarry atop a hill overlooking Saint-Marcel. The large Pérasso quarry remains active in the Vallon de Toulouse on the west side.
The city has not encroached much on the relief. A few villas have nibbled at the Colline aux Trois-Ponts. They have penetrated the Vallons de Vaufrèges, de la Panouse, de la Forbine, and des Escourtines. The long-standing separation between the urban area and the “hill” remains visible. It can be seen in the form of long, well-preserved walls.
No roads penetrate the massif. Only dead-end lanes serve the houses sheltered in the inhabited valleys. The Marseille-Cassis road marks the separation from the Massif de Puget. It offers a single access point at the Col de la Gineste. On foot, trails exist in the valleys, on the ridges, or on recent fire roads.
Almost half of the massif is occupied by the Carpiagne military camp. Access to the training area is prohibited. Several natural areas are open to the public along the edge of the city. These include the Parc des Bruyères and the Parc de la Forbine. The Muraille de Chine site is protected.
Vallon de Saint-Cyr, a place of natural beauty shaped by history. It is a testament to the enduring spirit of Marseille.