Imagine paper-mache bulls dancing with fireworks. That’s Tultepec. The city and municipality of Tultepec lies directly north of Mexico City. It’s part of the Greater Mexico City urban area. Its name comes from Náhuatl. It means hill of the tule.
Tultepec has a rich history. The Chichimecas first settled here. Then came the Otomis in the seventh century. After the Spanish invasion, Tultepec was given to Alonso Ávila. This area was part of the Encomienda de Cuautitlán. The modern town took shape around 1610. It was in the valley near San Martín. Franciscans arrived. They dedicated the community to the Nativity of Holy Mary. They built a temple in 1618. This temple was later renovated.
But Tultepec is most famous for one thing. Fireworks.
Tultepec’s pyrotechnics industry is a major deal. Each year, the town hosts a weeklong festival. Fireworks producers compete. Many pyrotechnic pioneers came from here. Agustin, Miguel, and Gregorio Fiesco innovated fireworks. José Solano Urbán revolutionized firework sets. Ángel Guadalupe Flores invented star fireworks and sparklers. Cirilo Sánchez worked on aerostatic balloons. Tomás Romero innovated the electric target.
Tultepec is known as the fireworks capital. But it wasn’t always this way. The town was once rural. The economy was based on pulque and animal feed. People also raised domestic fowl and small animals. They sold these in Mexico City.
The annual National Pyrotechnic Festival takes place in Tultepec. But there’s another festival you need to know about. Every year, in early March, the town erupts in celebration. Giant paper-mache bulls are filled with fireworks. These toritos are erected in front yards. It’s all part of the annual festival honoring Saint John of God. Fireworks producers view him as a protective figure. Thousands gather to dance and dodge the sparks. Many wear water-soaked cotton clothes. This protects them from burns. The nighttime lighting of the bulls didn’t take place in the streets, but in an open field nearby.
One of the best-known workshops is Los Chavitos. This family business has been producing cardboard figures for fireworks for 15 years. They make small bulls and giant ones. They create figures of saints and imaginary animals.
Francisco Cortes Urbán is a fireworks artisan. He learned the craft at age 12. He has passed his knowledge to his sons. Every March 8, monumental paper-mache bulls fill the streets. They accompany the figure of St. John in a procession. Smaller bulls also participate. They fill the sky with colorful explosions.
Tultepec was one of the first places to produce gunpowder in Mexico. This was during the colonial period. The town had an abundant supply of saltpeter. It’s a key ingredient.
The territory around Tultepec was once larger. The current municipality took shape in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Areas were split off to create Melchor Ocampo.
Sadly, Tultepec has seen tragedy. In 2016, fireworks exploded at the San Pablito Market. At least 36 people died. There had been previous explosions. Despite the dangers, locals remain passionate. Fireworks are their life. As Francisco Cortes said, every kind of work has a risk.
So, as you stand here, remember the blend of artistry, tradition, and risk that defines Tultepec. The hill of tule continues to light up the world.