Hidden in Marseille’s eastern edge lies the Traverse des Trois Lucs. A crossroads it was once a strategic passage. It connected the vallée du Jarret to the vallée de l’Huveaune. This historic crossing point linked Marseille to the Garlaban massif.
The name itself is a mystery. Some say Trois Lucs refers to three light sources. These were part of Marseille’s ancient surveillance system. Others believe it means ‘orient’ in Provençal evoking the sunrise. Still others claim it derives from the Latin ‘lucus’ meaning a wooded place. The area was indeed surrounded by forests.
For centuries the Traverse des Trois Lucs was almost uninhabited. It held only farms and quarries. Then in 1848 the Grottes Monnard were discovered. These caves provided water for the Brasserie Phénix until 1970. The brewery still owns the property. The mayor’s office tried to claim the caves in 1993 but failed.
Starting in 1914 a tramway arrived at the Traverse des Trois Lucs. The area became popular for its guinguettes dance halls and pétanque games. Weekends brought crowds of city dwellers to this once quiet place. The area developed further as large estates were broken up.
Today the Traverse des Trois Lucs is a vibrant part of Marseille’s 12th arrondissement. Near the crossroads you’ll find a pétanque court a popular public park and the iconic Église Sainte-Rita. This church features stained glass windows reflecting the “three lights” interpretation of the neighborhood’s name. Just south lies the Commanderie the Olympique de Marseille’s training center. The Marseille Canal runs under the avenue des Poilus. It then divides into three branches providing a serene covered walkway. The Traverse des Trois Lucs is a place where history nature and modern life beautifully intertwine. It’s a story etched into the very streets you walk today a place to explore and remember.