Traverse de la Madrague

Hidden within the bustling energy of Marseille, Traverse de la Madrague whispers tales of a bygone era. Traverse de la Madrague isn’t just a street. It’s a thread woven into the rich tapestry of Marseille’s history, connecting us to a time of fishermen, industrialists, and even whispers of royal romance. The name “Madrague” itself comes from the fishing nets used to catch tuna, a testament to the area’s maritime heritage. These nets were a key part of the madrague, a specialized fishing technique requiring royal permission. This area was home to one of Marseille’s two madragues. Until the early 20th century, Traverse de la Madrague was at the heart of this fishing activity. Dominated by Mont Rose, formerly known as “Mont Redon” due to its rounded shape, the area boasts a striking landscape steeped in history. In 1888, the last of the factories in the Calanques massif was established here. This factory, initially a lead foundry and later a tartaric acid factory, operated until 2009, leaving behind a complex legacy. The factory’s operations, unfortunately, resulted in significant pollution from lead, arsenic, and other heavy metals, impacting the surrounding environment. Remnants of a long, sloping condensation chimney can still be seen, a stark reminder of the factory’s impact. But Traverse de la Madrague also holds stories of a different kind. A private chapel once stood here, part of the old Château de la Madrague. In 1793, a young Napoleon Bonaparte, then an artillery commander, attended a clandestine mass in this chapel. He was accompanied by the Clary family, whose daughters, Julie and Désirée, caught the eye of the future emperor and his brother, Joseph. While Napoleon’s affections shifted to Josephine, Joseph married Julie, who later became Queen of Italy and Spain. Désirée, meanwhile, married General Bernadotte, the future King of Sweden. Thus, a touch of Traverse de la Madrague’s history flows in the veins of Swedish royalty. In 1888, when the lead factory was established, the remains of the Rostan d’Ancezune family, the last owners of Château de la Madrague, were moved to a tomb on Mont Rose, which can still be found today. The Château itself still exists. Traverse de la Madrague is more than just a street. It is a microcosm of Marseille’s history. A place where the echoes of industry, the whispers of romance, and the legacy of a vibrant fishing community intertwine.