Traverse de la Gouffonne

“Lost? Looking for something, or perhaps running from it?” The old fisherman chuckled, his eyes twinkling as he gestured towards the narrow lane. “This, my friends, is the Traverse de la Gouffonne. It’s a place where folks often come to… disappear.” The Traverse de la Gouffonne is more than just a pathway. It embodies the spirit of a hidden corner of Marseille. It represents the edge of the city. It’s a place where the urban landscape gives way to the wild beauty of the Calanques. Historically, the area around Traverse de la Gouffonne was a small port and industrial site. As early as 1804, a factory churning out artificial soda from sulphuric acid dominated the Goudes cove. Later, in 1854, a lead factory employed 18 workers, chosen for this remote location due to its low population density. This isolation gave rise to the Marseille slang “va te jeter aux Goudes”, literally “go throw yourself into Les Goudes”, meaning “get lost”. Traverse de la Gouffonne is connected to this sentiment. The remoteness of the area once made it seem like the end of the world. In the late 19th century, plans for a railway to Les Goudes were proposed. The 10 km line would have included five stops, connecting Prado, Sainte Anne, Borely Castle, Montredon, and Les Goudes. However, these plans were ultimately replaced by a tramway line. This tramway, established in 1891 at Madrague de Montredon, brought Les Goudes a bit closer to the heart of Marseille. This paved the way for the development of “cabanons,” simple houses built by boaters, further shaping the character of the area around Traverse de la Gouffonne.