Perhaps Tlacopac’s greatest charm lies in its whispers of the past. Tlacopac is a historic neighborhood nestled in the Álvaro Obregón borough of Mexico City. It’s historically linked to Campestre, San Ángel Inn and San Ángel.
Tlacopac’s name origin is debated. Some say it means “place of sticks.” Others suggest “in the middle of the water” or “above the jarillas.” The name Tlacopaque was even used in some old texts.
In pre-Hispanic times, Tlacopac was a Nahua settlement. These indigenous people lived north of what became the San Ángel River. By the late 16th century, Spaniards bought land from indigenous nobles. They sought fertile land and abundant water to grow wheat.
The neighborhood boasts a rich history. A road once connected Tlacopac to San Sebastián Axotla and Coyoacán. Another road linked San Jacinto Tenanitla to Tlacopac.
Locals worked as gardeners and muleteers. The old road to Cuernavaca passed through what is now Anillo Periférico. Many residents labored at the Carmelite college of San Ángel.
The Tlacopac church is a relic of the past. It began as a “visita” dependent on the San Jacinto Tenanitla parish. Dominican friars from Coyoacán administered it. The church’s design is simple. It has a belfry and an unfinished tower. Inside, a churrigueresque altarpiece was replaced in the 19th century. Neoclassical altars followed but were removed in the 1960s. The surrounding wall marks the former parish cemetery.
Initially dedicated to the Assumption, the church changed its name twice. In 1966, it became the “Conversion of Saint Paul.” By 1987, it honored the “Purísima Concepción.” Every December 8th, a procession fills the streets. Music bands and Moorish dancers join the celebration.
In the early 19th century, Tlacopac was known for orchards. José María Luis Mora’s poem mentions Tlacopac. It speaks of a sweet sound resonating beneath a guava tree.
In 1848, soldiers from the San Patricio Battalion were buried here. They were executed in San Jacinto. In 1999, a Celtic cross commemorated them. Civil ceremonies take place here.
Industrial growth in San Ángel and Tizapán drew workers from Tlacopac. They labored in paper and textile factories. In 1866, a railway connected Mexico City and San Ángel. It passed east of Tlacopac. Technical problems led to mule-drawn streetcars. Electric trams arrived in 1900. These trams ran until 1979. Avenida Revolución follows the old railway line.
The Tlacopac church’s entrance was once sad. Francisco Fernández del Castillo described it in 1913. The atrium lacked a wall and was filled with decaying tombs. It served as a gathering place for families.
Around 1915, the Hacienda de Guadalupe was divided. This created the Campestre colony. It included land east of Reyna and Corregidora streets. The postal codes later included the north part of Tlacopac.
Franz Boker, a German immigrant, bought land in Tlacopac in 1919. He built the “Casa Amarilla” in the Campestre colony. It spurred German families to settle here. Intellectuals and artists also built homes in Tlacopac.
A convent of Carmelite nuns was established on Madero Street. It venerates an image of the Lord of Santa Teresa. This image miraculously renewed itself in 1621.
Urban growth absorbed Tlacopac in the late 20th century. The San Ángel River was channeled underground. Anillo Periférico separated Tlacopac from other colonies. New housing, schools, and businesses appeared. A commercial corridor emerged on Avenida Revolución.
Cobblestone streets and the modest church recall Tlacopac’s rural past. A small plaza on León Felipe features a sculpture by Feliciano Béjar.
Tlacopac is where architect Félix Candela once lived. Writer Germán Dehesa lived and died on Corregidora Street.
Tlacopac is part of a protected historical zone. This declaration limits urban development. Local groups often oppose construction projects.
Tlacopac: a place where history whispers from every corner, inviting us to listen closely.