Marvelous mosaics whisper tales of Byzantium. Before you stands The Chora a building steeped in history. Originally a small chapel it stood outside Constantine’s city walls. Its name Chora means “country” or “in the country”. This reflects its rural location then outside the bustling city.
The Chora’s early years are shrouded in mystery. Some say relics of St Babylas resided here in the 4th century. Others credit its foundation to St Theodore. A more credible founder is General Crispus. He established the monastery in the 7th century. The earliest physical evidence however dates back to the 6th century. The vaulted substructures beneath the main building are a testament to that era.
The Chora played a pivotal role during the Iconoclastic Controversy. It served as a center of resistance. The iconodule saint Michael Synkellos was its abbot. Other iconodule saints including deposed Patriarch Germanos and Theophanes Graptos found their final resting place here.
The Chora you see today is the result of centuries of construction and renovation. Maria Doukaina restored it in the 11th century. Isaac Komnenos further renovated the building in the 12th century. He is depicted in the Deesis mosaics. He intended to be buried at The Chora but was buried elsewhere.
Then came Theodore Metochites. This 14th-century figure is a key figure in The Chora’s story. A scholar and statesman he undertook a massive restoration project. He rebuilt much of the structure. He lavished it with mosaics and frescoes. Metochites is depicted offering the church to Christ. His portrait remains above the entrance to the nave. He was buried at The Chora in 1332.
The Ottomans converted The Chora into a mosque in the early 16th century. They added a mihrab and replaced the bell tower with a minaret. The mosaics and frescoes were partially covered. The building suffered damage from earthquakes. It was later restored as a museum. In the 20th century The Chora was a museum. It’s now a mosque once again.
The Chora’s mosaics and frescoes are truly breathtaking. They depict scenes from the lives of Christ and the Virgin Mary. The Old Testament is also represented. There is even a depiction of the Last Judgment. The artistry is exceptional. It reflects the Palaiologan Renaissance.
Walk through its narthexes. Marvel at the artistry. Imagine the lives of those who built and worshipped here. The Chora’s story is a testament to faith art and resilience. It’s a living monument to Istanbul’s rich past.