“Ever noticed how some buildings whisper secrets?” That’s exactly what Templo de San Bernardo does. Today, only the church remains of what was once a large convent complex.
Let’s step back to the 17th century. Juan Marquez de Orozco a wealthy merchant decided to leave his fortune to the Church. There was one small detail in his will. He wanted the money used to found a convent for the Cistercian Order. The convent’s foundation faced a problem. It was solved when Orozco’s will was changed. “Cistercians” was swapped for “conceptionists”.
Construction of the Templo de San Bernardo began in 1685. It was finished just two years later. The church was consecrated in 1690. The convent itself was founded in 1636. Three of Orozco’s sisters and two other nuns from the Convent of Regina Coeli started it.
Later Miguel de Berrio y Saldivar Count of San Mateo Valparaiso oversaw repair work. He chose geometrically cut tezontle stone. The church was rededicated in 1777.
Now picture Mexico City during the Reform period under Benito Juarez. All monasteries and convents were closed. The convent associated with Templo de San Bernardo was demolished. Only the church was spared. This demolition made way for 20 de Noviembre street.
The facade of Templo de San Bernardo is largely covered in tezontle. It’s a reddish porous volcanic rock. The facade shows a “discreet” expression of Baroque style. Not every surface is covered in decoration. But the decorated sections are distinctly Baroque. The work resembles silversmiths’ filigree.
The niches stand out with their Baroque adornment. One niche holds a statue of Saint Bernard of Clairvaux. He revitalized Benedictine monasticism. The other niche features the Virgin of Guadalupe. Interestingly the Virgin of Guadalupe statue wasn’t always there. It was moved from the other side of the church when the convent was dismantled. Juan de Zepeda was the main architect of the Templo de San Bernardo.
Look for the bronze plaque on the exterior. It commemorates the Religious Conceptionists. It marks the 350th anniversary of the convent’s founding in 1986.
Inside Templo de San Bernardo you’ll find a neo-classic altar.
The facade facing 20 de Noviembre was moved in the 1860s. Originally the church had two matching entrances. The demolition allowed the opening of the street.
So next time you’re near the Zocalo take a moment to appreciate Templo de San Bernardo. It is a testament to faith art and the ever-changing face of Mexico City. It stands as a reminder of a time when convents dotted the landscape. Now it’s a beautiful survivor in a bustling city.