Perhaps you’ve wondered about this charming bistro. It’s the Szépilona a name whispered with fondness by locals. The Szépilona has a history stretching back over a century.
Under the shade of plane trees this garden restaurant first welcomed guests. This was at the beginning of Budakeszi út. The Szépilona’s last great era began in 1976. Imre Luzsi took over the restaurant then.
Down the years the Szépilona became an iconic Buda restaurant. Unexpectedly it closed in the autumn of 2019. Luzsi had run the restaurant successfully for 43 years. He stepped out to enjoy a well-deserved retirement.
His family wanted the Szépilona to be more than just a memory. With the help of a family friend László Molnár they planned its future. They sat down with Klára Dallos behind Buda’s successful Bartók. Gábor Kereszty was also there. He was responsible for one of the most revered bistros in town the Két Szerecsen. Imre’s daughter Tímea Luzsi was also in attendance. The meeting led to a plan to create a Szépilona for the 21st century.
The Szépilona embraces a simple heartfelt idea. It’s borrowed from Sándor Márai a famous resident of Buda. That idea is “You have to love life”. This motto underscores the whole operation. This is true inside and out. The interior retained some beautiful art deco pieces. There are a couple of dressers and toner chairs. It also gained a cheeky Paris-bistro atmosphere. This is thanks to striking photos old movie posters and lush green plants.
The Szépilona’s menu plays up its Buda credentials. It keeps everything within the framework of a bistro. You will find everything for a genuine bohemian restaurant on the short-term fixed menu. It is reminiscent of the Habsburg days. Enjoy Franz Joseph’s favourite tafelspitz. Or choose wiener schnitzel game or kaiserschmarrn pancake dessert.
But this is not 1910. Diners no longer arrive in hats or long skirts. Concessions have been made to the 21st century. Salads number among the light well-assembled dishes.
In addition to the fixed menu expect the weekly offer from Két Szerecsen. It’s wider than average. This includes fresher more contemporary dishes. They sit alongside classic Buda favourites. As a garden place in bucolic Buda the selection of drinks also plays a big role. Bavarian Paulaner beer is served cold. It has a perfect head. The wine list was created by the crew at Bortársaság. They selected from the best Balaton cellars.
Turning back to the current menu consider the tafelspitz. Nostalgia for Buda garden restaurants has never waned. However the average Buda diner only knows this dish from films. Unless they go to Vienna. The Szépilona now compensates for its absence. It serves a proper beautifully presented tafelspitz. Legend dictates that it is both a soup and main course.
The steaming pure beef broth comes in a red cast-iron pot. It is cooked with crunchy carrots minced meat marrow bone and boiled beef. The first task is to remove the bone from the pot. Acknowledge its presence by smearing the marrow bone onto the hot toast. Drizzle it into the hot soup with the dumplings and bright carrots. Turn your attention to the tafelspitz ingredients presented on a separate tray. Spread out is tasty meat toast with crispy potato rolls and fresh spinach. Also enjoy apple horseradish and a nostalgic sauce. The kitchen ensures their natural tastes remain. Everyone only enters the party as much as their qualities allow. The perfect spinach suggests great care is taken over the vegetables at Szépilona.
The Szépilona Bisztró is more than just a restaurant. It’s a living piece of Buda’s history. It’s a place where you can taste tradition. You can also feel the pulse of a modern city. So come raise a glass to life. Experience the charm of the Szépilona for yourself.