Perhaps the name Sungai Tembuan rings a bell. It should! The name “Sembawang” likely originated from a timber tree. This tree grew in wet tropical areas especially along streams and flowing rivers in forests. It is also likely that the tree was found growing along the Sungai Tembuan. The river shares its name with the tree.
Let’s dive into the story of Sungai Tembuan. The first record of the Sembawang tree specimen in Singapore was by Danish surgeon Nathaniel Wallich in 1822. He named it Mesua singaporiana. In 1897, the tree was recorded as Kayea ferruginea by Henry Nicholas Ridley. Ridley was the director of the Singapore Botanic Gardens then. He noted its local name Pokok Sumbawang and its proximity to Johor. In his book, Ridley described the Kayea ferruginea as a fairly large straggling tree. It was found overhanging streams and rivers in forests. Its local Malay name is Buah Sembawang.
When the British first arrived in Singapore in 1819, the island was sparsely populated. A large part of it was covered with primeval forests. They encountered 20 gambier and pepper plantations. These were owned by Teochew planters who had arrived from Riau. These plantations were initially located near the Singapore River. They moved further inland to the north when agricultural land in the town center became scarce. This was due to the development of the town and harbor area. Gambier and pepper plants needed new land every 15 to 20 years.
Crops were planted along navigable rivers like Sungai Tembuan. These rivers served as a mode of transportation. Prior to the cultivation of gambier and pepper plantations, Sembawang was covered with lush vegetation. There were freshwater swamps, mangrove or coastal forests like the rest of the island. These were depleted by agricultural cultivation and human settlements over the decades.
As early as 1822, Captain James Franklin surveyed the coastlines of Singapore. The results of his surveys were incorporated into a map. It was called Plan of the Island of Singapore Including the New British Settlements and Adjacent Islands. William Farquhar produced it. He was the first Resident of Singapore. Although Sembawang is not named on these maps, they show the coastal areas of Singapore covered with vegetation. This was likely a reference to the mangrove and freshwater swamp forests. Gambier and pepper plantations also existed in the early 19th century.
In 1828, Franklin and Lieutenant Philip Jackson prepared Plan of the British Settlement of Singapore. This map accurately captured the outline of Singapore island. It possibly contains the earliest reference to the Sembawang area. The map shows several rivers including a “R. Tambuwang” in the north. This is most likely a corruption of the toponym River Sembawang. Other variant spellings of Sembawang in the 19th century include “Sumbawang” or “Sambawang”.
In April 1848, Thomson noted that the Sungai Sembawang is navigable by gunboats at high water. The area was inhabited by Chinese gambier planters. They possessed one pukat. Pukat refers to a large native boat used for shipping gambier between Indonesia, Malaysia and Singapore.
Unlike the town, the interior of Singapore was heavily forested. There were no proper roads. Traveling by boat on Sungai Tembuan was a common mode of transport in the 19th century. By the late 19th century, gambier and pepper plantations were mainly found in the northern and western parts of Singapore. Soil conditions were more favorable there. In 1883, the colonial government created forest reserves. This was to protect the virgin forest reserves and for a continuing supply of timber. In 1884, the first eight forest reserves were identified and administered including in Sembawang.
Now, as you stand here by the Sungai Tembuan, remember its rich history. It was once a vital waterway. It supported plantations and linked communities. The river’s story is intertwined with the Sembawang tree. The tree and the river are a reminder of Singapore’s natural and cultural heritage.