Statue équestre de Louis XIV

Hidden in plain sight, the Statue équestre de Louis XIV dominates Place Bellecour. It whispers tales of kings and revolutions, artists and urban legends. The statue is a monumental tribute to Louis XIV, although he only visited Lyon once. It’s the largest bronze monument of its time, standing tall at 17 meters. Created by François-Frédéric Lemot, a sculptor from Lyon, it replaced an earlier statue by Martin Desjardins that was melted down during the Revolution to make cannons. Imagine 24 horses pulling this massive bronze creation from Paris to Lyon in 1825. The journey took 12 days, a grand spectacle that surely captivated onlookers. The statue portrays Louis XIV riding “à la romaine” – without a saddle or stirrups. This style echoes the equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius. A popular urban legend claims Lemot committed suicide for forgetting the stirrups. But history reveals he died naturally in 1827. Another legend whispers that Lemot was made a Chevalier de la Légion d’Honneur for this masterpiece. The truth is, he received this distinction earlier. At the base of the statue, there were once two allegorical statues representing the Rhône and Saône rivers, created by the Coustou brothers. These were moved to the Museum of Fine Arts in 2021 for preservation. Look closely at the statue. During its 2023 restoration, a pickaxe was found lodged in the horse’s leg! A sealed box was also discovered inside the horse’s head. It contained a copy of the inauguration speech. The Statue équestre de Louis XIV isn’t just a statue. It’s a time capsule, a testament to Lyon’s rich history. The locals affectionately call it “Le Cheval de Bronze,” a nickname dating back to the 1830s. It has become a beloved meeting point. People often arrange to meet “sous la queue du cheval” – under the horse’s tail. The statue is a silent observer of countless rendezvous and whispered secrets. It stands as a powerful reminder of the city’s resilience and its enduring spirit.