Square des Deux Nèthes

Hidden in plain sight, Square des Deux Nèthes whispers tales of a bygone era. This tranquil oasis, nestled in the 18th arrondissement of Paris, holds more than just green space. It cradles echoes of music, laughter, and perhaps, a touch of the underworld. Square des Deux Nèthes opened to the public in 2003. Yet, its story begins long before, in the vibrant interwar period. Imagine the scene. The air vibrates with the infectious rhythms of a bal musette. This was the Petit Jardin, a popular dance hall that once occupied this very spot. In 1935, amidst a crowd of locals, regulars, and perhaps even the notorious criminal Papillon, two unknown artists took the stage: Édith Piaf and Django Reinhardt. Their music, raw and full of passion, filled the night. Square des Deux Nèthes draws its name, as does the neighboring Impasse des Deux-Nèthes, from the French department of Deux-Nèthes. This department, existing during the French Revolution and Napoleon I’s reign, had Antwerp as its capital. The department itself was named after the river Nèthe in Belgium, which has two tributaries: the Grande Nèthe and the Petite Nèthe. Fast forward to 2003. Square des Deux Nèthes emerges, reclaimed from a dilapidated built lot. It’s bordered by two unique small alleys: the Impasse de la Défense, entirely renovated in a striking Bauhaus style, and the Impasse des Deux-Nèthes. Look around. In 2011, a giant graffiti of Abbé Pierre appeared, a testament to the square’s continued role as a canvas for social expression. Today, Square des Deux Nèthes offers a peaceful escape from the bustling city. It stands as a testament to Paris’s ability to weave together threads of history, music, and community into the fabric of its urban spaces. But as you stroll through its tranquil paths, remember the echoes of the Petit Jardin. Imagine the melodies of Piaf and Reinhardt. And perhaps, you’ll catch a glimpse of the spirits that still dance within Square des Deux Nèthes.