Did whispers ever reach your ears about the sprawling necropolis of Şişli? Here lies the Şişli Greek Orthodox Cemetery, also known as the Metamorfosis Cemetery and Church. Şişli Kilisesi isn’t just a church. It’s a poignant testament to a community’s resilience. It is the largest burial ground for Istanbul’s Greek community. The cemetery itself is a spectacle. It’s an open-air museum adorned with stunning sculptures. These works blend Western and ancient Greek styles by prominent artists of the time. The Şişli Kilisesi stands as a beacon within this city of souls.
The story of Şişli Kilisesi begins, like many others, in the face of adversity. For centuries, the Greek community, like other non-Muslim groups, buried their dead within and around their churches. However, the 19th century brought change. Istanbul’s rapid urban expansion and population growth strained existing churchyards. A series of cholera and plague outbreaks further complicated matters. Hygienic concerns led to a ban on burials in church cemeteries. The Greek Orthodox community, along with other minority groups, was allocated a 38,600 square meter plot in Şişli. The land became the final resting place for not just Greeks, but also Russian, Serbian, Bulgarian, Arab and Turkish Orthodox individuals. Today, nearly 85,000 souls rest within Şişli Kilisesi’s grounds. A sobering reminder of the cemetery’s history is the extensive damage it suffered during the September 6-7 events.
At the heart of the Şişli Greek Orthodox Cemetery is the Metamorfosis Church. Built in 1889, the church showcases an eclectic architectural style. It features a central dome and a cruciform layout, dedicated to the Transfiguration of Jesus. The church owes its existence to the generosity of the Stefanovik-Schilizzi brothers. Dimitrios, Ioannis, and Pavlos funded its construction in memory of their parents, Zannis and Eleni. They entrusted the design to the renowned architect Alexandre Vallaury. His legacy includes Istanbul landmarks like the Archaeological Museum, Pera Palace Hotel, and the Ottoman Bank in Karaköy. The church was consecrated on May 21, 1889, by Metropolitan Sofronios of Iznik. Şişli Kilisesi remains an active place of worship, continuing to serve the community that built it amidst the stones and the memories.