Consider the silence that envelops us here. This is the Shrine of Ptah Meretzeger. It is a testament to the beliefs of the artisans who once lived and worked in this region.
This sacred place is dedicated to two powerful deities. Ptah was the patron god of craftsmen. Meretseger was the cobra-goddess watching over the Theban Necropolis. Her name means “She Who Loves Silence”. She was believed to reside in the mountain overlooking the Valley of the Kings.
The artisans of Deir el-Medina revered Meretseger. They believed she punished crimes with blindness inflicted by her venomous bite. They sought atonement by erecting stelae in her name.
The Shrine of Ptah Meretzeger stands as one of her largest rock-shrines. It is situated south of the village. It is found on the mountain path to the Valley of the Queens. Kings and high officials of Dynasties XIX and XX erected many stelae here.
The sanctuary appears to have been established at the beginning of Dynasty XX. However, fragments from Dynasty XIX suggest earlier use. Ernesto Schiaparelli first excavated it in 1906.
Seven small shrines or chapels once stood here. Most are now ruined. Large stelae were placed behind the shrines. Some can still be seen. The reliefs are worn and damaged. Some are almost impossible to distinguish, except in the right light.
Most of the stelae bear the cartouches of Rameses III. One better-preserved stela depicts Pharaoh Setnakht. He appears with the goddess Mut of Asher and Hathor. They receive the heb-sed symbol from Amun-Re and Ptah. A badly eroded wall features a shallow relief. It shows Meretseger with the head of a cobra. Some stelae retain remnants of their painted colors.
Meretseger was more than a guardian. She was a force of both danger and mercy. She protected the royal cemetery. She punished those who desecrated tombs. She also forgave those who repented.
The people, especially the artisans, deeply feared and respected her. She was associated with the highest Theban hill, el Qurn. Its peak resembles a pyramid. This may have influenced the choice of the Valley of the Kings as a royal burial site.
The shrine also reveals the unique concepts of sin, repentance, and forgiveness. These ideas were unusual in the broader context of Egyptian beliefs. Meretseger’s cult uniquely embodies these characteristics.
The shrine itself was once a series of caves. Earthquakes caused them to collapse. Many artifacts recovered from this site are now in various museums.
As we stand here, imagine the artisans who sought her favor. They left stelae with prayers and requests for forgiveness. They built small chapels at the foot of her sacred hill.
The Shrine of Ptah Meretzeger is a reminder of the power of belief. It highlights the relationship between the divine and the human. It shows us the lives of those who shaped this ancient land. Let us leave this place with a sense of reverence. Let us carry the silence of Meretseger in our hearts.