Setra

In the heart of Denpasar, nestled amidst the bustling city, lies Setra Badung, a cemetery that whispers tales of kings, princesses, and unlikely heroes. Setra Badung isn’t just a final resting place. It’s a sprawling expanse of over 8 hectares, divided by a road that splits it into two distinct sections. The road itself even changes names as it navigates the grounds. It’s Jalan Imam Bonjol at the front, then transforms into Jalan Batukaru as it passes between the cemetery’s halves. Setra Gede serves the Denpasar adat community, while Setra Bugbugan offers solace to those without known identities, followers of other faiths, and Hindu visitors from outside Denpasar. Setra Badung is also a place of unexpected stories. One such story revolves around the grave of Raden Ayu Siti Khotijah, a daughter of the King of Pemecutan. Having married a Muslim prince from Madura, she returned to her homeland. While praying in the royal palace, she was mistaken for practicing black magic. Faced with accusations, she declared her innocence and vowed to pierce her chest with a hairpin. She prophesied that if her body emitted a foul odor after death, she was guilty. But if a sweet fragrance arose, she was innocent. Upon her death, a beautiful aroma filled the air. A sacred tomb was then built for her within Setra Badung, which is now revered and visited by Muslims from across Indonesia and even abroad. Setra Badung holds another intriguing tale, that of J. Miura, or Tuan Miura Djo, a Japanese man who died on September 7, 1945. He was disillusioned with Japan’s occupation and dedicated himself to helping the local people. His acts of kindness, not of war, resonated deeply within the community. His grave is a frequent stop for those whose families he aided, as well as Japanese visitors who come to pay their respects. Today, Setra Badung stands as a tranquil haven. The shade of its numerous trees offers a peaceful respite. Locals and visitors alike often pause here to relax or grab refreshments from the nearby vendors. Setra Badung transcends its role as a cemetery. It’s a cultural landmark, a testament to Denpasar’s rich and diverse history. It’s a place where the stories of royalty and commoners, locals and foreigners, intertwine, echoing through the ages.