Senen whispers stories of Jakarta’s past. This district, a blend of old and new, holds a vibrant history. Senen’s heart beats to the rhythm of Pasar Senen, the “Monday Market”. It was established in 1733 by Justinus Vinck, a Dutch entrepreneur. He envisioned two bustling marketplaces, Tanah Abang and Senen, to serve Batavia’s growing upper town. Pasar Senen quickly became a focal point, connecting the city’s heart to the surrounding villages.
Senen wasn’t always a market though. In the early 19th century, it was the military heart of Weltevreden, a European-centric neighborhood. The road to Meester Cornelis, now known as Kramat Raya and Salemba Raya, was lined with forts and military complexes. These guarded the vital route, ensuring the security of Batavia. As the city grew, Pasar Senen transformed into a primarily Chinese commercial center. Narrow alleyways, known as “gangen” in Dutch, and Chinese-style shophouses filled the area. Gang Wang Seng, Gang Kenanga Noord, and Gang Kenanga Zuid were just a few of the bustling passages.
By the late 19th century, progress arrived in Senen with the advent of the railway and street tramlines. A railway station was built in 1886, and a newer, larger one followed in 1925. This further solidified Senen’s position as Jakarta’s busiest commercial hub. The area also became an entertainment center, with cinemas like the Rex and Grand Theater drawing crowds. The Grand Theater, originally called Kramat Theatre and later Rex Cinema, was a landmark of Senen. It offered low-budget films in its later years before closing in 2016.
Post-independence, Senen became a melting pot of cultures. People from across Indonesia flocked to the capital, seeking opportunities. Bantenese, Sundanese, Minang, and Batak traders and workers added to Senen’s vibrant mix. However, this period also saw Senen’s decline. It became known as “Planet Senen,” a hub for gangs, gambling, and prostitution. This nickname alluded to the space race and Senen’s isolation from the rest of Jakarta. Despite this reputation, Planet Senen nurtured a vibrant arts scene. Young artists, poets, and writers gathered in its venues. Names like Sukarno M. Noor, Rendra Karno, and Benyamin Sueb frequented the area, fostering Jakarta’s burgeoning artistic scene. Even the genre of Dangdut music has its roots in Planet Senen.
In the 1960s, the “Project Senen” initiative aimed to revitalize the area. Six modern market blocks replaced the old shops. This project, while modernizing Senen, also displaced many of its original inhabitants. The Planet Senen red-light district was shut down in 1973, and sex workers were relocated. In 1974, student protests against foreign investment began in Senen. These escalated into the Malari Incident, with riots targeting Japanese and Chinese-owned businesses. Today, Senen remains a complex and dynamic district. The Atrium shopping center, built in 1990, attempted to bring modern retail to the area. Future urban development plans aim to integrate Senen’s rich history with modern transit systems. Senen’s story continues, a testament to Jakarta’s ever-evolving identity.