Upon entering Schloss Ettlingen’s courtyard you are immediately struck by its grandeur. This Baroque palace in the heart of Ettlingen is more than just a building. It’s a living testament to centuries of history and transformation. The current Schloss is actually the successor to two perhaps three earlier structures. The first a castle built by Margrave Rudolf I of Baden in the mid-13th century. It may have been built on the remains of an even earlier Staufer building though this remains unproven. Parts of the original 13th-century keep remain visible today forming part of the inner courtyard walls.
In the 16th century this medieval castle was replaced by a magnificent Renaissance palace. Two turrets were added to the south wing. The keep was given a timber-framed upper floor. This impressive Renaissance palace with its three wings surrounding the old keep was completed around 1600. Unfortunately it met a tragic end during the Palatine War of Succession in 1689. French troops completely destroyed both the palace and the city.
However the story of Schloss Ettlingen didn’t end there. After her husband’s death Margravine Augusta Sibylla chose Ettlingen as her widow’s residence. Between 1727 and 1733 she commissioned the rebuilding of the palace. Using sandstone from Lossburg master builder Johann Michael Ludwig Rohrer created the luxurious Baroque palace we see today. It was designed as a residence for her later years. The four-winged structure reflects her vision. Following her death in 1733 the Schloss served various purposes. It was used as a guesthouse and even a military hospital. In 1871 the Prussians turned it into a Non-Commissioned Officer school. Finally in 1912 it became the property of the city of Ettlingen.
Notice the stunning illusionistic Baroque painting on the south wing of the courtyard wall. It’s a breathtaking masterpiece. See also the impressive doorway and the dolphin fountain dating from 1612. This courtyard is the setting for the annual Ettlinger Schlossfestspiele a renowned theatre festival.
The Asam Hall formerly the palace chapel deserves special attention. This exquisite space is decorated with thirty frescoes by the renowned Baroque painter and architect Cosmas Damian Asam. These frescoes depicting the martyrdom of St John Nepomuk are the only surviving works by Asam in the Upper Rhine region. Today the Asam Hall hosts concerts and events such as Schubertiades. The main hall of the palace used as a ballroom by Augusta Sibylla showcases impressive window recesses decorated with mural paintings. A gently curved gallery and a large Bohemian chandelier add to the magnificence of the Great Hall.
Now a museum and event venue Schloss Ettlingen houses a collection of local history and archaeology. It also features a collection of regional art works from 1900 onwards particularly works by Karl Hofer. East Asian handicrafts are displayed in the Baroque state rooms. So as you explore Schloss Ettlingen remember that you are walking through layers of history. Each stone each fresco each room tells a unique story of the people who lived and worked here. This magnificent palace is a place where the past comes alive.