Gazing up at Sant Felip Neri, did you notice the subtle shift in architectural style? The present Sant Felip Neri church isn’t the original structure on this site. It stands on the foundations of the former Convent and Church of the Holy Spirit, a 16th-century edifice belonging to the Trinitarian Order. Sant Felip Neri itself echoes this past. It exhibits a captivating blend of Baroque and later renovations, a testament to its layered history. The Trinitarians, established in Mallorca in 1232, held this sacred ground until 1835. Then, Mendizabal’s secularization swept through Spain. The Trinitarians were ousted, and their church, sadly, became a storehouse for hay. Imagine, Sant Felip Neri filled with bales of hay instead of prayerful whispers! But the story doesn’t end there. In 1858, the Congregation of the Oratory of San Felipe Neri acquired the dilapidated church and convent. They began extensive renovations. Their restoration efforts breathed new life into Sant Felip Neri, officially renaming it in 1859. The meticulous work continued until 1875. Records from the Oratory’s archives even reveal the names of the craftsmen: Joan Bauzà, the original master builder, later replaced by Francesc Rosselló, along with carpenters, blacksmiths, glaziers, and the painter, Vicenç Matas. Matas’s artistry graces the main altarpiece and other areas of the church. Look closely at the main altar. It’s a single, massive stone, supported by sculpted angels, a work of Pere Martínez Pavia. It wasn’t consecrated until 1959, marking the centenary of the Oratory’s arrival. The main altarpiece, a Baroque masterpiece by Andreu Carbonell, dates back to 1713. It was brought here from the Congregation’s previous church. It houses a statue of San Felipe Neri himself. It also features works by other artists. You’ll see paintings by Miquel Pont and Bartomeu Morey. There’s a more modern addition, the tabernacle, from 1926. Step inside, and you’ll find a treasure trove of art and history within Sant Felip Neri’s chapels. Each holds a unique story. One such chapel is dedicated to the Santo Cristo Rescatado (Holy Rescued Christ). Its name stems from a fascinating legend. It tells of the statue’s miraculous rescue from Algiers. Another chapel, dedicated to the Virgen de Lourdes, features works by Guillermo Galmés. Sant Felip Neri is more than just a church. It’s a repository of stories. These stories intertwine with Mallorca’s rich history and artistic legacy.
Antoni Maria Alcover i Sureda
Born amidst the sun-drenched fields of Santa Cirga, Antoni Maria Alcover i Sureda, a name synonymous with Majorcan literary revival,