“In the home of the snakes” is what the name San Miguel Coatlinchan means in Nahuatl. Here in San Miguel Coatlinchan, we stand near what was once the original location of a monolith of Tláloc. Today that monolith resides at the entrance of the National Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City.
San Miguel Coatlinchan is more than just a town. It is a place of rich history and resilient spirit. It sits in the southern part of Texcoco. The town nestles in the transition zone between the Valley of Mexico and the Sierra Nevada foothills.
San Miguel Coatlinchan boasts a prehispanic origin. Chichimec people founded it. Later the Acolhuas invaded. Coatlinchan became the head of their señorío until around 1337. Then, the head moved to Tetzcuco which is today’s Texcoco.
Let’s talk about the monolith. The people of San Miguel Coatlinchan were skilled stoneworkers. They created a huge stone sculpture. It became known as the monolith of Tláloc. Some debate whether it represents Tláloc. Others suggest it could be his sister or wife, Chalchiuhtlicue. Both were deities of water and rain.
Locals knew it as the Piedra de los Tecomates. This was because of the circular crevices shaped like jícaras. People attributed miraculous powers to the sculpture. They believed it could attract rain if the tecomates were wet. Some even thought the water had healing powers. Villagers gave offerings. They asked for rain and good harvests. San Miguel Coatlinchan became a tourist spot.
In 1963, President Adolfo López Mateos wanted the monolith for the National Museum of Anthropology. The community agreed to donate it. In return, they asked for public works. These included paving roads, a primary school, a health center, and water wells.
But the transfer faced delays. People began to oppose it. They feared losing a tourist attraction. They worried about the effect on the rains. In February 1964, the people rebelled. They destroyed structures and deflated truck tires. The government postponed the move.
On April 16, 1964, the Mexican Army occupied San Miguel Coatlinchan. They prevented further protests. The monolith was moved. Villagers lined up to watch it pass. An unseasonal downpour occurred. Some saw it as a sign from the gods.
The basalt statue weighed 168 tons. It required a special trailer. Some villagers tried to sabotage the move. The government’s authority prevailed. Today, the monolith stands in Mexico City. Its journey from San Miguel Coatlinchan is a story of faith, resistance, and cultural heritage. San Miguel Coatlinchan remembers the stone.