High in the Xochimilco highlands sits San Mateo Xalpa. A captivating mountain village. Its narrow streets wind through a landscape quite different from lower Xochimilco.
San Mateo Xalpa is one of Xochimilco’s fourteen original settlements. Founded in 1542 it was once known as Pochtlan. This translates to “place of merchants”. Its Nahuatl name Xalpa means “over the sand”. The ancient town thrived along the old Mexico-Acapulco highway.
Imagine the 16th century. A small hermitage stood here. Part of the Monastery of San Bernardino. By the 1700s a permanent temple took shape. It featured a nave masonry walls and a wooden roof. For centuries priests conducted open-air masses before the apse.
The construction of adjoining chapels between 1750 and 1798 gave the temple a Latin cross floor plan. Buttresses were added to support the vaulted roof. Between 1882 and 1891 semi-circular arches were added to the side walls. This increased height allowed for a vaulted dome over an octagonal drum. Early 20th century renovations didn’t significantly change the building’s look. A graveyard remained in the atrium until the end of the 20th century.
San Mateo Xalpa’s unique character is undeniable. Its high mountain atmosphere and narrow streets offer a captivating escape. It’s a world apart from the bustling lower regions of Xochimilco. Often visited with neighboring towns it offers a glimpse into a rich history. A history woven into the very stones of its charming church. A history whispered on the wind through its quiet streets.
In 2005 San Mateo Xalpa had around 14520 residents. Though not a major international tourist destination its charm remains undeniable. It is a place that speaks of history culture and a unique way of life. A true hidden gem. A place where time seems to slow its pace.