Saint-Jean-du-Désert

Hidden within Marseille’s 12th arrondissement lies Saint-Jean-du-D désert, a place steeped in history. Saint-Jean-du-D désert wasn’t always the quiet area you see today. It was once a bustling hub for faïence production, known for its clay-rich soil and abundant springs. This area, known in ancient times as Sarturan, has a history stretching back centuries. The Greeks cultivated vines here. Later, Gallo-Romans established their presence. Archaeological evidence suggests that even earlier, during the Chasséen period, this land was used for terracotta production. By the early 10th century, priests from the Major were cultivating the land. In 1176, the land was granted to the canons of the Major. By the late Middle Ages, however, the land fell into disuse, with a shortage of workers to cultivate it. This led to repopulation efforts, attracting both peasants and wealthy Marseillais who established properties in the area. A pivotal moment for Saint-Jean-du-D désert came in 1638. Benoît Monier, a local lord, donated his pine forest for the construction of a chapel dedicated to Saint John the Baptist. This chapel, completed in 1668, became a local landmark. Later additions included a bell tower in 1708 and side chapels in 1736. The chapel even houses the tomb of Jean-Pierre de Moustiés, an alderman known for his efforts during the 1720 plague. Around 1677, Joseph Fabre, a banker, established the first faïence factory in Saint-Jean-du-D désert, marking the beginning of its rise as a ceramics center. Joseph Clérissy became the director of this venture. He is considered the first faïencier of his family, predating Moustiers by a year. By the late 17th century, Saint-Jean-du-D désert flourished. Several faïence factories, potteries, clay extraction sites, and worker housing sprung up, alongside other businesses like a mill, a tavern, and a bakery. This growth was partially fueled by Louis XIV’s decision to have his wealthy subjects melt down their gold and silver tableware, creating a demand for faïence as a replacement. Joseph Fabre capitalized on this demand, establishing Saint-Jean-du-D désert as a key supplier. The area even attracted notable figures like Pierre Puget and Frédéric Mistral. However, this prosperity didn’t last. A shortage of wood for the kilns, limited water availability, and competition from other production sites like Moustiers led to a decline. Over time, the faïence factories closed, and the land was repurposed. Today, little remains of this once-thriving industry. While Saint-Jean-du-D désert may have lost its industrial character, its rich past remains.