Saint Francis Xavier Church;The Dongjiadu Cathedral

Did the echoes of cannon fire truly mingle with the hymns of Saint Francis Xavier Church’s first service? Here at Dongjiadu Cathedral, the oldest church in Shanghai, the line between fact and legend blurs. Dongjiadu Catholic Church, as it’s also known, stands quietly among the modern buildings of the Old Chinese City. Its history is deeply intertwined with the story of Catholicism in Shanghai. Following the Opium War, the Qing government, viewing Catholicism as a “religion that exhorts people to do good,” permitted its presence in open ports. However, Shanghai’s original Catholic Church was seized and repurposed. As compensation, in 1848, the Qing government granted three plots of land to the church. Bishop Louis de Besi chose one to build the new Saint Francis Xavier Church, honoring China’s first Christian missionary. Construction took six years, beginning in 1848 and culminating in the first service in 1853. A French cruiser marked the occasion with a resounding cannon salute during the consecration ceremony. Dongjiadu Cathedral became the central church for the Southern Yangtze Parish, a role it held until the construction of Xujiahui Catholic Church in 1910. Designed by Spanish missionary Joanne Ferrer, the church echoes European Jesuit styles. The arched ceiling of the main hall creates wonderful acoustics. Green panels adorn the ceiling, with a beautiful relief sculpture of China at its apex. Massive columns, four meters in girth, support the structure. A spiral staircase winds within one, leading to the choir loft. Ferrer, influenced by his artist father, originally envisioned a replica of St. Ignatius Cathedral in Rome. Limited funds led to a simplified design, omitting the stained glass, central dome, and replacing it with a Baroque gable. Three large Chinese characters, “Tian Zhu Tang” (Catholic Church), grace the facade. A heavy crucifix, adorned with Chinese ornamentation, crowns the church. The church became a hub of artistic exchange. Ferrer, needing artists to complete the church’s decoration, expanded his studio and began teaching. He shared his knowledge of sculpting, painting, and engraving with numerous Chinese students. Tragically, Ferrer died young in 1856, at the age of 39, within the very walls of Dongjiadu Church. This church’s namesake, St. Francis Xavier, arrived in China in 1551 but was denied entry to Guangdong. He died on the island of Shangchuan. Later canonized, he is the only missionary to China to achieve sainthood. Here at Dongjiadu Cathedral, the stories of these men intertwine with the whispers of history, faith, and artistic passion, creating a unique legacy in the heart of Shanghai.