Imagine real fabric dipped in stucco. That is the unique baldachin in the Church of Saint-Bruno des Chartreux also known as Sacré-Coeur des Chartreux.
Welcome to one of Lyon’s hidden gems. It is a remarkable example of baroque style. This is the Church of Saint-Bruno des Chartreux. It stands as Lyon’s only baroque church. Its history is as rich as its ornamentation.
Let’s step back in time. We’ll explore how this magnificent church came to be. The Carthusian monks from Grenoble established monastic communities here. This was thanks to their strong ties with the church in Lyon. They initially assisted Lyon’s clergy. This assistance was during Forez Guy’s pillaging of the city in the 12th century. They gained privileges, including toll exemptions on their Lyon journeys.
King Henri III visited in 1584. Two Carthusian monks requested permission to establish a monastery in Lyon. The king granted it. He pledged 30,000 livres for construction. Though he never paid. He named it Chartreuse du Lys St Esprit.
Construction of the Sacré-Coeur des Chartreux occurred in two phases. The first phase ran from 1590 to 1690. It included the choir, small cloister, sacristy, and monks’ cells. The second phase happened in the 18th century. It involved completing the nave, transept, and side chapels. Renovations and extensions took place in the 19th century. These mainly affected the chapels and facade.
Notice the choir. It has only five windows now. Ferdinand-Sigismond Delamonce blocked several during the second phase of works. The Rococo choir stalls showcase reversed volutes and foliage garlands. Asymmetrical shells and flower garlands also decorate them.
The Munet arch marks the transition between the choir and the crossing. Melchior Munet built it in the 18th century. It features powerful Baroque-style pillars.
The altar is double-sided. The office could be celebrated from either side. The monks’ side or the people’s side.
The baldachin above the altar is a highlight. Giovanni Niccolò Servandoni designed it. It aims to magnify Christ’s presence in the Eucharist. The columns are marble. Capitals are wood stuccoed to imitate marble. The drapery is cloth dipped in liquid plaster and painted gold.
The nave’s decoration is more sober. This is keeping with the Carthusian spirit. Its ceiling features arched vaults. A dentillated cornice runs around the whole church.
Before 1870, the west front was plain. It was a flat wall with a door and window. Louis-Jean Sainte-Marie Perrin designed a new facade. It has three receding levels.
The church’s dome is made of stone. It hides the internal structure. A lantern tops it with a cross on a globe. This is the Carthusians’ symbol.
Saint-Bruno’s Church is more than a historical monument. It is a testament to faith, art, and architectural innovation. Take a moment to appreciate this masterpiece of baroque art. The baldachin is unique. It has draperies of genuine cloth covered with stucco. A true sight to behold.