What if the oldest tree in Paris could talk? It would tell tales of revolution, of love found and lost, of countless seasons painting Rue Viviani with light and shadow. We are standing in Square René Viviani. It is more than just a green space in the 5th arrondissement of Paris.
Square René Viviani is officially named Square René Viviani-Montebello. It is a place where history whispers from every corner. This public square sits next to the Church of Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre. This makes it neighbor to one of Paris’ oldest churches. Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre was built at the same time as the Notre-Dame Cathedral.
Before becoming the Square René Viviani we see today, this land served many purposes. Once, it was a cemetery dating back to the 6th century. Later, monastic buildings stood here. Still later, it housed an annex of the Hôtel-Dieu. Hôtel-Dieu is the oldest hospital in Paris.
The Square René Viviani finally opened as a public park in 1928. It is named after René Viviani. He was France’s first Minister of Labour.
Look around and notice the odd pieces of carved stone scattered about. These aren’t just random rocks. They are salvaged pieces from Notre Dame Cathedral. During the 19th century, the cathedral underwent restoration. Architect Eugène Viollet-le-Duc replaced degraded limestone. The older pieces found a final resting place here in Square René Viviani.
The Square René Viviani offers one of the best views of the Cathedral of Notre Dame in all of Paris.
Don’t miss the fountain. It is called the Saint Julien fountain. Sculptor Georges Jeanclos created it in 1995. The fountain depicts the legend of St. Julien the Hospitaller. The story tells of a curse, a talking deer, mistaken identity, and a horrific crime.
But the true gem of Square René Viviani is the oldest tree in Paris. This Robinia pseudoacacia was planted in 1601. Jean Robin planted it. He brought the seed from the Appalachian Mountains. Supported by concrete crutches, this tree has stood here for over four hundred years. It even survived a shell strike during World War I. Despite its age, it blooms every year.
Take a moment to appreciate the location of the Square René Viviani. It is near the Seine. The Square René Viviani sits near the Quai de Montebello. Also near is the Shakespeare and Company. This English-language bookshop is around the corner on Rue de la Bûcherie. George Whitman named it after Sylvia Beach’s legendary bookshop.
As you leave Square René Viviani, remember its layers of history. From a cemetery to a hospital annex, to its current park. It is a place of ancient stones, legends, and the oldest tree in Paris. It’s a small green space in the heart of Paris.