Rue Vilin

Lost in time, yet eternally present, Rue Vilin whispers tales of a bygone Belleville. Rue Vilin was more than just a street. It was a vibrant artery, a community’s heart, pulsating with life in Paris’s 20th arrondissement. Imagine children chasing a rouge balloon down the gentle slope, their laughter echoing against the walls that witnessed generations come and go. Rue Vilin, once stretching over 200 meters, connected Rue des Couronnes to Rue Piat via a charming staircase of fifty steps. This staircase, a focal point of the street, featured in films like “Orpheus,” “The Red Balloon,” and “Casque d’Or,” immortalizing Rue Vilin on the silver screen. The street bore the name of Mr. Vilin, an architect and mayor of Belleville in 1848. His legacy lived on in the very fabric of this neighborhood. Rue Vilin was a beloved playground, a place where everyday life unfolded. The writer Georges Perec, who resided at both number 1 and 24, captured its essence in his work. His mother, Cyrla, ran a hair salon at number 24, weaving herself into the street’s vibrant tapestry. Rue Vilin was also home to Simon Gutman’s family, a poignant reminder of the diverse lives it sheltered. But progress, like a double-edged sword, brought both advancement and loss. In the 1980s, as part of an urban renewal project, Rue Vilin was dramatically shortened. The upper half, leading to the iconic staircase, vanished. The park of Belleville now occupies the space where the upper half of the street once existed. While the physical street may be fragmented, its spirit persists. Photographs by Robert Doisneau and Willy Ronis, along with Robert Bober’s documentary “En remontant la rue Vilin,” preserve its memory. These glimpses into the past allow us to walk, in our minds, the full length of Rue Vilin. We can almost hear the echoes of children’s games and the quiet hum of daily life. Rue Vilin, a ghost of its former self, lives on through stories and memories.