“Obstacle to drunkards.” That’s how Francis Carco described Rue Utrillo’s steps. Today we explore this unique street in Montmartre. Rue Utrillo is a tribute to Maurice Utrillo. He was a painter who captured the essence of Montmartre.
Once part of Rue Muller, Rue Utrillo got its own name in 1963. Muller owned the land where buildings were constructed. The city decided to honor the painter who so well depicted Montmartre. This part of the street has steps. It sets it apart.
Imagine Rue Utrillo in 1890 when it was still Rue Muller. Young trees in the Jardin Saint-Pierre barely hid the buildings. Today the garden is named Louise Michel. The stairs begin where Rue Paul Albert, Rue Muller, and Rue Feutrier meet.
At the beginning of Rue Utrillo was a restaurant. It was called Le Phare de la Butte. Sadly it is now gone. A late 19th-century bakery transformed into a trendy restaurant. It kept its painted glass ceilings and gently sloping summer decor.
Before it was named after Utrillo, Rue Muller gained fame. It was thanks to a painting by Utrillo himself. The artist set up his easel on Rue Lamarck. He painted Rue Muller up to the building on Rue de Clignancourt.
Francis Carco mentioned this street in his book about Utrillo. He noted Utrillo’s fondness for steep perspectives and steps. The steps of Rue Muller posed a challenge to those who had too much to drink. Carco also wrote about Utrillo’s humility. He said Utrillo aimed to capture the character of Paris. He didn’t dream of conquering the world. Instead he counted the steps on Rue Muller. He knew how difficult they were to climb after drinking.
Willy Ronis’s famous photo added to the street’s renown. Its misty atmosphere created a polar-like scene. The street has been a popular filming location. Max Ophuls’s “Sans lendemain” filmed here in 1939 with Edwige Feuillère. Many filmmakers chose it for its typical Montmartre vibe. “Moulin Rouge” and “Amélie Poulain” also filmed here.
François Gabriel, a photographer, had his studio at number 36 Rue Muller. Today it is 2 Rue Utrillo. Gabriel photographed passersby in the stairs from 1914 to 1959. His photos captured the charm of the neighborhood. They show the changing seasons and people climbing the stairs year after year.
Only even numbers exist on this side of the street. The garden occupies the south side. Note the buildings at 4, 6, and 8 Rue Utrillo. One of the tallest buildings in Montmartre faces Rue Lamarck. The ground floor has a zinc overhang. La Savoyarde restaurant was located here. Now it is an apartment with views of the garden and Paris.
Maurice Utrillo frequently painted his surroundings. He often created solitary cityscapes. By 1937 Utrillo had moved away from Montmartre. Poor health and alcoholism kept him from painting outdoors. He continued painting urban landscapes. He drew inspiration from postcards and memories.
It is believed that Utrillo painted Sacré-Coeur de Montmartre and Rue Saint-Rustique from memory. The painting shows a quiet winter scene. It combines the geometry of buildings with free brushstrokes. The few people in the painting invite you to stroll through a snowy Montmartre.
Rue Utrillo ends here. Cross Rue Lamarck. Climb the last steps. Reach the Basilica terrace. Discover the rolling rooftops of Paris. Imagine living here. An apartment on Rue Muller. Seeing those stairs. Always filled with people who seemed to glide. Someone even painted angels on a door. They connected heaven and earth. Like Jacob’s ladder. These angels continue their journey. With smiling shadows captured by François Gabriel.
It’s quite fitting that Rue Utrillo honors an artist who found so much inspiration in Montmartre. His paintings continue to inspire us today. His art captured the beauty of Montmartre’s streets.