Rue Saint-Paul

Can a street whisper secrets of centuries past? Rue Saint-Paul in Lyon certainly can. This cobbled street, nestled at the foot of Fourvière Hill in Old Lyon, is more than just a pathway. It’s a time capsule, echoing with the footsteps of Roman legionaries, medieval merchants, and Renaissance artisans. Rue Saint-Paul stretches from Quai Pierre Scize to Place Saint-Paul, running north to south. The architecture along Rue Saint-Paul tells its own story. The street is paved and buildings stand only on the odd-numbered side. The even side reveals a fascinating quirk: garages carved beneath the railway embankments of Saint-Paul station. Look up, and you’ll catch breathtaking views of Fourvière Hill. Imagine 18th-century houses that once stood opposite the church, now replaced by the arrival of the railway. The remaining buildings, two to three stories high, are painted in vibrant colors. Notice the house on the corner of Place Saint-Paul, dating back to 1569, adorned with a beautiful coat of arms. Number 13 boasts a wide arch, etched with the remnants of a sundial, while number 15 intrigues with its unusually scarce windows. Rue Saint-Paul leads you to the Church of Saint Paul, a testament to Lyon’s rich history. Constructed between the 12th and 19th centuries, it showcases a blend of architectural styles, reflecting various renovations. Admire its beautiful sculptures and the pointed bell tower, a 19th-century addition. Walk around the left side of the church to discover the stunning octagonal Romanesque bell tower, topped with a lantern. Across from the church, a niche shelters a statue of Jean Gerson, who once resided in the Saint-Paul district. His outstretched arm depicts him teaching a child. Rue Saint-Paul then gently ascends towards the entrance of Saint-Paul station. The street derives its name from the church, whose foundation is traditionally attributed to Bishop Sacerdos in the 6th century. Ironically, in the 18th century, this very street bore three different names, depending on the section: Rue Misère, Rue de la Poterie, and Rue de l’Epine. Rue Saint-Paul holds many intriguing historical anecdotes. One legend claims that during the consecration of the first church around 549, a sick Bishop Sacerdos was miraculously replaced by Jesus Christ himself. A perpetually burning candle and a mysterious metal censer served as proof. Sadly, these artifacts vanished during the Wars of Religion. The district around Saint-Paul has flourished since the 6th century, growing around its episcopal group. Leidrade rebuilt the church under Charlemagne’s reign. In the 14th century, the canons of Saint Paul demanded exorbitant funeral fees, leading to a lawsuit that capped the charges. King René resided briefly in Saint-Paul in July 1454. King Henri III entered Lyon on September 6, 1574, his procession traveling from Saint Jean to Saint Paul. The street’s present appearance largely took shape after the Renaissance, evidenced by the few remaining houses from that era. Rue Saint-Paul whispers stories of remarkable individuals. Gabriel Mouton, the church vicar in 1670, was a visionary. He proposed a measurement system based on the Earth’s circumference, a precursor to the nautical mile and the meter. Julie de Lespinasse, born in Saint-Paul in 1732, became famous for her salon, hosting Enlightenment thinkers like d’Alembert. Joseph Marie de Pernety, baptized here in 1766, had a distinguished military career, serving royalty and rising to the rank of Lieutenant General. His name is etched on the Arc de Triomphe. Françoise Alix Desrois, baptized in Saint-Paul in 1766, is the mother of the renowned poet Alphonse de Lamartine. Antoine Gabriel Jars, baptized in 1774, became Lyon’s mayor during the Hundred Days in 1815. The 19th century brought significant changes to Rue Saint-Paul. Houses on the east side were demolished, replaced by arches supporting the railway line to L’Arbresle. This transformation dramatically altered the streetscape. Rue Saint-Paul is a captivating blend of history, architecture, and intriguing stories. It’s a street that whispers secrets of the past, inviting you to explore its rich heritage and immerse yourself in the heart of Old Lyon.