Did you know that Rue René-Leynaud in Lyon was once called Rue Vieille Monnaie? That’s right. This unassuming street in the Croix-Rousse district holds a rich and often dramatic history. It’s a street steeped in the past. A past of silk workers and revolutionaries. A past of clandestine printing presses and Resistance fighters.
Rue René-Leynaud boasts a history stretching back to 1520. It’s one of the oldest streets in the Capuchin district. Originally named Rue Vieille Monnaie. It was opened by Claude Besson. He wanted to build his Hôtel des Monnaies there. The street’s early years were dominated by religious congregations. Oratorians and Ursulines lived nearby. The Église Saint-Polycarpe. Built in 1670. Stands as a testament to this era. It even bears the scars of cannon fire. Fired during the French Revolution.
In the 19th century Rue René-Leynaud became a pivotal location during the Canut revolts. These uprisings were sparked by disputes between silk workers and factory owners. Barricades were erected on the street. Canuts fought for their rights. Their struggles against the authorities. These battles lasted for days. The street’s significance didn’t end there. During World War II. Rue René-Leynaud played a key role in the French Resistance.
Number six on Rue René-Leynaud held special significance. It was the apartment of René Leynaud. A journalist poet and Resistance fighter. Albert Camus. A fellow member of the Combat network. Often stayed there in 1943. Number 14 also housed a Resistance mailbox. Connected via a traboule. Secret passageway. To 13 Rue des Capucins. And at number 21. An underground printing press operated. This press printed clandestine newspapers like Cahiers du Témoignage Chrétien. Franc-Tireur. Combat and La Marseillaise.
Tragically. René Leynaud was arrested in 1944. Executed by the Germans. The street was renamed in his honour in 1945.
After the war Rue René-Leynaud experienced a period of decline. It became a haven for marginalized groups. Clandestine activities. But it also attracted a vibrant underground nightlife. In 1971. La Petite Taverne opened. Lyon’s first gay nightclub. This attracted other gay bars. Lesbian clubs. Punk venues. Creating a unique and diverse atmosphere. This lasted for about twenty years. Although most of these venues are now gone. Chez Tante Lina. An African bar-restaurant continues the tradition.
Today. Rue René-Leynaud is a reminder of Lyon’s complex and sometimes turbulent history. A street where layers of the past are interwoven. From its origins as Rue Vieille Monnaie. To its role in the Resistance and the rise of the underground scene. It’s a street with stories waiting to be discovered. A street that speaks volumes about the city’s resilient and ever-evolving identity. A street well worth exploring.