“A street named ‘Thank You, Mother’?” a child’s voice piped up, echoing through the centuries. We stand here today, on Rue Mercière in Paris, a street older than its present-day restaurants would suggest. In fact, the very name, Rue Mercière, meaning “Merchant Street”, hints at its rich past. While today known for gastronomy, let’s rewind to a time when Rue Mercière was the vibrant heart of Lyon, its main artery since the 13th century. This bustling thoroughfare stretched across the Presqu’île, connecting the Rhône and Saône rivers. It was so central to Lyonnaise life that in the early 14th century, the city council chose a church on Rue Mercière, Saint-Jacquême, for their meetings.
But imagine Rue Mercière in the 15th century, not as one long road but divided into three distinct sections. The latter part of this century ushered in a golden age. Lyon’s annual fairs drew artisans of all kinds: parchment makers, playing card producers, painters, and, most significantly, printers and booksellers. Rue Mercière transformed into the epicenter of Lyon’s printing industry, reaching its zenith in the 16th century.
Lyon became a major player in European printing. By the early 16th century, the city boasted 181 printing workshops, ranking it third in Europe, after Venice and Paris. Many of these workshops clustered on and around Rue Mercière, partly for easier policing. In 1472, Barthélemy Buyer opened Lyon’s first printing workshop. In 1473, the first book printed in Lyon emerged from his workshop, a religious text compiled by Guillaume Leroy. This workshop also produced, in 1476, the first book printed in French, a translation of Jacques de Voragine’s “Golden Legend.” Great names in Lyonnaise printing graced Rue Mercière, including Sébastien Gryphe and Jean de Tournes.
However, this flourishing trade began to decline in the second half of the 16th century, dragging Rue Mercière down with it. The street’s narrowness became a problem. Though it remained Lyon’s main artery until the 18th century, by the late 16th century, the seeds of change were sown. The construction of Rue Centrale (now Rue de Brest), a parallel street, aimed to alleviate congestion. This new street became immensely popular, drawing people and businesses away from historic Rue Mercière. The decline continued with the creation of Rue Impériale (Rue de la République) and Rue de l’Impératrice (Rue Edouard Herriot), further diminishing Rue Mercière’s importance.
By the 1980s, Rue Mercière had transformed again. What was once a vital commercial hub, then a center of printing, and later a neglected area, was reborn as a pedestrianized haven of Lyonnaise gastronomy. Although it faced near-destruction in the mid-20th century, preservation efforts saved it. Today, we enjoy its Renaissance architecture and a multitude of restaurants, a testament to Rue Mercière’s resilience and constant reinvention.