“St Julian the Poor” rings with an almost ironic tone. We are standing before Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre. This church is one of Paris’s oldest and most beguiling religious buildings.
It is a bit of a hidden gem. Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre doesn’t attract the massive crowds of Notre Dame. Its neighbor is just across the river Seine. Sainte Chapelle also draws bigger crowds.
Inside Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre, the 12th-century interior exudes a simple charm. That simplicity is rare in the French capital.
The church offers a peaceful escape from the city’s hustle. You will find it just a minute’s walk from the Shakespeare and Company bookshop.
Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre is not your typical medieval church. It houses Orthodox elements. One such element is the ornate gold-painted iconostasis or wooden altar screen.
A church may have stood here as early as the 6th century AD. Construction of the present building began in the late 12th century. Romanesque arches were still common then.
Building Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre took several decades. Later, pointed Gothic arches were added. These arches are similar to those in Notre Dame and the Basilica of St Denis.
Part of the nave was demolished in the 17th century. The plain west façade was added then. The church was almost demolished after the French Revolution.
Franz Christian Gau restored Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre. He also worked on the nearby church of St Severin. In 1889, the Greek Melkite Catholics took over. It remains their center of worship in Paris.
“Le Pauvre” means “the Poor.” It is unclear which of the many Saint Julians the church honors. Saint Julian of Le Mans is one possibility. He was the first bishop of Le Mans. He cared for the poor and sick. He retired to live as a hermit.
Saint Julian the Hospitaller is another possibility. Very little is known about him. He opened a hospice for travelers. He also cared for the poor.
Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre is a late Romanesque church. It features a small nave and rounded arches. The nave is one of the oldest surviving parts of a church in Paris.
Some medieval carved stone capitals survive. They depict leaves, plants and even harpies. Georges Bitar of Damascus completed the golden iconostasis in 1890. This happened the year after the church was given to the Melkites.
The four lower figures are the Virgin Mary, Christ Pantocrator, St John Chrysostom and St John the Baptist. The panels above depict scenes from the life of Christ.
Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre is small. Its nave seats only about 150 to 200 people.
Outside is Square René Viviani. It is home to what is said to be the oldest tree in Paris. This locust tree is over 400 years old. Touching its bark is said to bring good luck.
The University of Paris chose Saint-Julien in the 13th century. It was chosen as the location for its assemblies.
During the French Revolution, Saint-Julien became a salt warehouse. Later, it was a chapel for the Hospital Hôtel Dieu in 1805.
Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre is a repository of history. Despite its transformations, it remains a place of worship. It is a testament to faith. It is a testament to resilience.