Rue du Nivernais

Nestled in the heart of Paris, the Rue du Nivernais whispers tales of intriguing history. The street may seem unassuming now, but it once housed a magnificent mansion known as the Hôtel de Nivernais. In 1539, a house stood on this very spot, built for Ambroise Boileau, a master embroiderer. It later became home to prominent figures like Louis de l’Estoile, president of inquiries at the Parliament of Paris, and Charles du Plessis-Liancourt, governor of Paris. The story of the Rue du Nivernais takes a dramatic turn in 1607. L’Eleonora Galigaï, wife of Concino Concini, Marshal of France and Marquis d’Ancre, purchased the property. Concini had the original structure demolished and replaced with a grand residence designed by Francesco Bordoni. This opulent mansion became a stage for political intrigue. In 1616, supporters of the Prince de Condé revolted against Concini, ransacking the Hôtel de Nivernais in the process. Following this tumultuous period, the mansion served as a residence for ambassadors extraordinary, further cementing the Rue du Nivernais’s connection to power and diplomacy. Its location was strategically advantageous, near important political hubs. It was close to the Hôtel de Gondi (later belonging to the Princes de Condé), the Hôtel du Petit Luxembourg (occupied by Cardinal Richelieu), and the Luxembourg Palace itself. The Hôtel de Nivernais continued its evolution, undergoing renovations in the neoclassical style. Louis XV gifted the mansion to the Marquis de Portchartrain, and it eventually passed to Hélène-Angélique Phélypeaux de la Vrillière, wife of the Duke of Nivernais, in 1753. The Duke, an ambassador of Louis XV and patron of the arts, commissioned architect Marie-Joseph Peyre to modernize the mansion in 1769. While the original interior is sadly lost, the Rue du Nivernais retains a sense of its former grandeur. The austere portal and the simple facades reflect Peyre’s neoclassical leanings. In 1819, the Hôtel de Nivernais was acquired by the city of Paris and converted into a barracks for the National Gendarmerie. Since 1871, it has served as a barracks for the Republican Guard, adding another layer to the street’s rich history.