A defensive barrier. That’s what likely gave Rue du Barrage its name. You are standing on Rue du Barrage. This short street is full of history.
In medieval Paris water-powered mills lined the Seine. One mill was called Moulin des Barres. It was likely named after a defensive barrier. Barriers once stood along the river. They helped protect against Viking invaders. The street leading from the Seine became Rue des Barres.
Rue des Barres appears on a map from 1550. It runs between Rue de la Mortellerie and La Porte Bodes. Today, those streets are now Rue de l’Hôtel de Ville and Rue François Miron.
In 1250, a mansion arose on Rue des Barres. It was called Hôtel des Barres. 150 years later, Louis de Boisredon bought it. He captained the Queen’s Bodyguards. Louis became Queen Isabeau’s lover. One day in April 1417, Louis passed King Charles VI. He gave a small salute without dismounting.
King Charles had Louis arrested. They sewed him in a bag. Then, they threw him into the Seine. The bag read, “Let the justice of the King pass”. We don’t know if this happened on Rue des Barres. We like to imagine it did every time we walk here.
Rue des Barres runs from the Seine near Pont Louis-Philippe to Rue François Miron. At the Seine end, Rue des Barres starts by Café Louis Philippe. It’s tucked behind Chez Julien. The street climbs wide shallow steps into the Marais.
As you climb, Église Saint-Gervais-et-Saint-Protais is on your left. A church has stood here since the 7th century. The current one took 150 years to build, finishing around 1650. Inside, see the stained glass and nave ceiling. Tragedy struck here. During Good Friday service in 1918 a German shell hit the church. It killed 88 people and wounded dozens.
Further along, spot historic buildings. Number 12 dates from an abbey. It housed nuns. It was rebuilt in 1540 in half-timbered style. Number 15 dates from 1624.
Before you leave, walk to the riverbank. Relax in Parc Rives de Seine. It is now traffic-free. Rue du Barrage has witnessed much history. From Viking defenses to royal intrigue and wartime tragedies. It connects us to Paris’s long and complex story.