Perhaps surprisingly, the Rue du 11 Novembre is connected to a time when Paris was densely populated. The 11th arrondissement has always been one of the most populated areas in Paris. It boasts a tumultuous history. It remains quintessentially French.
The Rue du 11 Novembre evokes images of barricades in the urban landscape. The storming of la Bastille occurred in 1789. The Revolution of 1848 also took place here. The Commune uprising happened in 1871. The 11th was one of the last neighborhoods to fall during la Semaine Sanglante. This was the Bloody Week. Even today la Bastille remains a favorite location for demonstrations. Many unsuspecting tourists find this out.
Do you know about the special status the 11th arrondissement once held? French kings granted it. Small trades could develop there without paying taxes. As early as the 15th century the 11th arrondissement attracted artisans. It attracted craftsmen too. Parisians looked for quality wood furniture. They also sought ceramics and porcelain. Wall paper, marble, and tile floors were popular. People headed to la rue du Faubourg Saint Antoine. The area thrived in the 19th century.
Can you believe that the street was still a draw in the mid-1980s? It attracted anyone interested in buying quality furniture. Some people still return to le Faubourg Saint-Antoine today. They head towards la Nation. There is no rush. They take the time to indulge in a very Parisian flânerie. They stop for some photos. They window shop. They walk around a friend’s old neighborhood.
It is still possible to find examples of the 11th arrondissement’s old trades. Rue Saint Bernard has a store called Produits d’Antan. It specializes in supplies for cabinetmakers and stone masons.
I’ll share a memory of the 11th arrondissement. I once lived there before it became trendy. My first place was a small studio on rue Alexandre Dumas. It had no proper kitchen. There was a small bathroom with a narrow standing shower. It was not much. However, it was mine. It gave me my first taste of independence. As a young executive I loved my neighborhood. It was near la place de la Nation. This was a public transportation hub. It was between two Metro stops. I could walk to a good friend’s apartment. It was on rue de la Forge Royale. We worked together. We commuted to Rueil Malmaison daily. I look back fondly on these years. I enjoyed the friendships I made at work. The paycheck came in every month. It was enough to go out. I could catch a movie or two. I enjoyed lively dinners at small local restaurants several times a week. Life was busy but good. Everything seemed possible.