How many streets in Paris can claim a history stretching back to the 12th century? Rue de la Verrerie can. It is one of the oldest routes in the city. Let’s discover its story.
Rue de la Verrerie. Its name whispers of glassmakers. The name’s origin is uncertain. It may come from glass workshops established here in the 12th century. Or it could be named after Guy le Verrier or le Vitrier. He was a resident in 1185.
Imagine Paris around 1150. Rue de la Verrerie was at the edge of the Seine’s extreme floods. It bordered the north of the Saint-Gervais mound and the south of the Saint-Merri mound. These mounds were floodproof hills. They dominated the old marsh on the right bank before the area was drained.
This street was included within the first enclosure of the right bank. This dates back to the 10th or 11th century. Picture this route as part of an east-west axis. It ran parallel to the Seine. It linked to Les Halles market with Rue du Roi-de-Sicile.
By the 12th century it was known as Rue de la Verrerie. However the part near the Saint-Merri church was called Rue Saint-Merri in 1380. Over time the street acquired varied names. These included Rue de la Voirerie, Rue de la Varerie and Rue de la Voirie.
In 1180 a community of glass painters enamelers and paten makers settled here. Jacquemin Gringonneur lived here during Charles VI’s reign. The 17th century saw glass replace stained glass. Gradually this community declined due to lack of work.
In 1636 a manuscript mentions Rue de la Verrerie. A report notes the street was mostly dirty and full of garbage. Royal decrees later ordered its widening. King Louis XIV wanted to improve Paris and ease traffic flow. Especially on Rue de la Verrerie. It was the usual route from the Louvre to the Chateau de Vincennes. Foreign ambassadors used it to visit the king.
A ministerial decision in 1797 set the minimum width at 10 meters. A royal ordinance later increased it to 12 meters. In the 19th century Rue de la Verrerie was 452 meters long.
Guillaume Apollinaire mentioned Rue de la Verrerie in his poem Le Musicien de Saint-Merry. It appeared in his 1918 collection Calligrammes.
The construction of Rue de Rivoli in the 1850s altered the surrounding land. The street sits slightly higher than its original level. This explains the slope of Rue des Archives and the stairs on Rue des Mauvais-Garçons.
In early 2019 the mayor announced plans to transform the street into a pedestrian zone. In June 2019 Place Harvey Milk was inaugurated at the intersection with Rue des Archives.
Number 18 houses the Alaïa gallery and Azzedine Alaïa foundation. Xavier Ruel founder of the Bazar de l’Hôtel de Ville built it. He created a charity that distributed meals to poor families. The hall accommodated 420 guests with two services each day.
Under number 40 lie 13th-century cellars. Number 42 is a building constructed in 1858 on 16th-century cellars.
Number 61 is the birthplace of Élise Deroche. She was the first woman to receive a pilot’s license in 1910. Eugène Labiche was born at number 67.
Number 76 is the location of the Saint-Merri church and presbytery. It was built in 1754.
At number 83 stood an hotel called À la ville de Reims in the 17th century. In 1781 the Comte and Comtesse de La Motte stayed here. They remained until the affair of the necklace scandal.
From 1793 to 1798 the Guéret sisters painters Anne and Louise Catherine lived at number 109.
Rue de la Verrerie is more a memory of commerce than glass production. From glass for churches to porcelain it adapted to changing times. So as you walk this ancient street remember its layers of history. Its stories echo from medieval glassmakers to modern pedestrian life.