Do rosebushes still line the Rue des Rosiers? Let’s explore this iconic street nestled in the heart of Paris’s historic Marais district. The Rue des Rosiers, or “Street of the Rosebushes,” whispers tales dating back to the late 12th century.
Originally, this path followed the inner side of a rampart built by King Philip-Augustus. Legend says rosebushes adorned this section, giving the street its poetic name. You can still see a restored tower and rampart segment in the Jardin Rosiers Joseph Migneret. Access it from number 10 Rue des Rosiers.
The Rue des Rosiers we see today largely took shape in the mid-19th century. An old dead-end alley, Impasse Coquerelle, was opened, connecting Rue Ferdinand-Duval and Rue Pavée. This change improved the street’s accessibility.
The Jewish Quarter’s story is intertwined with the Rue des Rosiers. The Jewish community faced periods of discrimination throughout the Middle Ages. In 1394, King Charles VI banned Jews from the French Kingdom. They were forced to sell their belongings and leave the country.
Between 1881 and 1914, Jewish people began returning to France, seeking refuge from persecution. Around 20,000 Ashkenazi Jews settled in the old Jewish Quarter, calling it “Pletzl” meaning “little place”.
Tragedy struck the Rue des Rosiers on August 9, 1982. A brutal anti-Semitic attack at the Goldenberg restaurant at number 7 left 6 dead and 22 injured. The shooting became known as the Fusillade de la Rue des Rosiers. Though initially blamed on the Fatah Revolutionary Council, investigations pointed to perpetrators of Caucasian descent. The case remains unsolved. Bullet holes scarred the building for years. In 2006, the restaurant was sold and turned into a clothing store, reflecting the changing face of the street.
While lacking grand architecture, the Rue des Rosiers charms with its pedestrian ambiance. Jewish food shops, bakeries, and libraries still exist. However, fashion boutiques are increasingly taking their place.
One notable building is the Hammam Sauna Saint-Paul at number 4. Dating back to 1863, it was once very popular. As homes gained bathrooms in the 20th century, its popularity waned. The pinkish facade still stands out against the white buildings.
Next to number 4bis is a private vocational school. It was once the Société de patronage des apprentis et ouvriers israélites de Paris. Founded in 1852, it educated apprentices. A plaque honors the director, staff, and students who died in concentration camps during WWII.
At number 23, admire the restored facade of an 18th-century mansion. Near the corner of Rue Ferdinand-Duval, you’ll find a Jewish bookshop. From 1500 to 1900, the street was known as Rue des Juifs or Jews Street. Ancient houses line the street, each with stories of the Jewish community.
You’ll find a modest synagogue at number 17. Locals usually refer to the grander Synagogue de la Rue des Rosiers at number 10 on Rue Pavée. Hector Guimard, the Art Nouveau master, designed the Agoudas Hakehilos synagogue also known as Synagogue Guimard. The Askenazi community commissioned it in 1913 to serve the growing Jewish population. Partially destroyed in WWII, it was rebuilt. It became a Historical Monument on June 4, 1989.
The Rue des Rosiers is truly unique. It offers a glimpse into Paris’s diverse cultural heritage. It is a street where history whispers around every corner, and the spirit of the community endures.