Why does this narrow passage bear such a charming name? I will tell you a tale about Rue des Hirondelles in Paris. This street’s story is deeply rooted in Parisian history. Rue des Hirondelles meaning “Street of the Swallows” is a very old street on the Left Bank.
Around the year 1200, this street emerged. It was part of the Clos de Laas. This area belonged to the Abbey of Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Initially, it was a vineyard. But starting in 1179, it was divided into plots. Over time, the street had different names. It was once known as Rue Arrondale-en-Laas. Other names included Rue d’Hyrondale and Rue de Lyrundelle.
In old French, “arondale” meant swallow. So the street’s name comes from a sign featuring a swallow. Imagine Paris around 1280-1300. Guillot de Paris mentioned the street in his “Le Dit des rues de Paris”. He called it Rue Hérondale. A manuscript from 1636 refers to it as Rue de l’Arondel.
Originally, Rue des Hirondelles began at Place du Pont-Saint-Michel. However, in 1855, Place Saint-Michel was created. This new square cut off almost half of the street’s length. Today, this narrow street has a unique feature. Near number 6 Place Saint-Michel, there is a staircase. These seven steps are closed off by a wrought iron gate. It leads to a discreet passage. This passage is vaulted with two arches. This gives the street a quiet, secluded feel in a busy area.
If you look closely at the corner of Rue Gît-le-Cœur, you can see an inscription. It’s on the wall of a building. It spells out “rue de lirondelle” with a whimsical misspelling.
Let’s talk about some notable buildings and historical spots on Rue des Hirondelles. Around 1541, the surgeon Ambroise Paré had his apothecary shop here. It was called “The Three Basins”. Sadly, this part of the street was destroyed when Place Saint-Michel was built.
Numbers 20-22 house the Hôtel de la Salamandre. Legend says François I built it. Above the porch and in the courtyard, you can spot two bas-reliefs. They depict a salamander, the king’s emblem. The hotel was completely renovated in the late 18th century. The Historical Society of the 6th Arrondissement notes the bas-reliefs may have been salvaged or replicas made to keep the legend alive.
Number 22 was once a “maison borgne”. It operated as the Hôtel-Bar de la Marine. Numbers 23, 25, and 27 are heavily altered. According to the Marquis de Rochegude, they are remnants of the Collège d’Autun dependencies.
At number 25, you’ll find the former cabaret La Bolée. In 2019, it was known as La Vénus noire. This place was frequented by artists. Charles Baudelaire, Jeanne Duval, Pierre Mac Orlan, Francis Carco, Robert Desnos, and André Warnod all visited here.
So, as you wander this street, remember its long history. From vineyards to a haven for artists, Rue des Hirondelles has many stories to tell. Next time you are in Paris, take a stroll down Rue des Hirondelles. Imagine the swallows soaring above this ancient street.