“A stroll through the narrow streets of the Latin Quarter sounds delightful.” This is what I thought when I first heard about Rue des Gallardons. It is not just any street. It is a street steeped in history.
The Latin Quarter is my favorite neighborhood in Paris. Perhaps because I was a French teacher. Perhaps because I led student tours for many years. This colorful part of Paris has always been close to my heart. It is traditionally frequented by students intellectuals writers artists and the young.
My tours were always surprised to learn that it got its name Latin Quarter. In the Middle Ages Latin was the language of learning. The University of Paris had its beginnings in the 12th century right here.
The first night in Paris I wanted my group to experience the narrow medieval streets of this historic district. We started at the métro Maubert-Mutualité. We crossed Boulevard Saint-Germain and took Rue Maître Albert. It leads into Rue de la Bûcherie across the river from Notre Dame.
We delighted in the tiny streets. They haven’t changed much for 800 years. Several charming places offer dinner along these streets. We also enjoyed La Rue Galande a little to the left across Rue Lagrange.
At the end of Rue Galande we came upon the lovely little church Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre. It is one of the city’s oldest religious buildings. It was built on the ruins of a church destroyed by the Normans in the 9th century. It was rebuilt in the 12th century in Gothic style. At the end of the 19th century the church was given to the Greek Orthodox faith.
From the front of the church we went to Rue Saint-Jacques. Then we went onto Rue du Petit Pont. Just before reaching the river we turned left onto Rue de la Huchette. This little street and all the other ancient streets around it are very interesting. They lie between Boulevard Saint-Michel Boulevard Saint-Germain and Rue Saint-Jacques. These are exciting places to stroll especially after dark.
This is not elegant Paris. But it is old Paris. Passageways have remained unchanged for centuries. These include Rue de la Harpe Rue Xavier Privas and the very narrow Rue du Chat qui Pêche. These streets are crowded noisy youthful and colorful. Lots of cheap restaurants abound many of them Greek. Waiters stand outside trying to lure you in.
On Rue de la Huchette be sure to look at the tiny Théâtre de la Huchette. It has continuous performances of Ionesco’s plays for over 48 years. We wandered around these narrow streets. We even picked up a baklava in one of the many shops specializing in Mediterranean pastries.
One treasure to see is the church of Saint-Séverin. Rue de la Harpe crosses Rue Saint-Séverin. Everything in this neighborhood is so close you won’t miss it. If you are here at night you will enjoy the lighting of this Gothic gem. If you are here during the day you may want to visit the interior.
It is interesting to note that this church is a stone’s throw from the mighty Notre Dame. I have always wondered how the relatively small population of 12th and 13th century Paris could sustain so many churches. Rue des Gallardons offers a unique glimpse into this history.
In future visits we will explore more favorite spots in the 5th and 6th arrondissements. Stay tuned for more Parisian adventures.