Rue de l’Hirondelle

Tucked away in the bustling heart of Paris, Rue de l’Hirondelle whispers secrets of a bygone era. This narrow, almost hidden street, belies its rich history. Rue de l’Hirondelle has been a part of Paris since the 13th century. It was originally much longer, stretching all the way to the Place du Pont-Saint-Michel. The creation of Place Saint-Michel in 1855 dramatically shortened Rue de l’Hirondelle, taking away nearly half its length. Now, a discreet staircase with seven steps leads down from Place Saint-Michel to this secluded passage. An iron gate guards the entrance, enhancing the feeling of stepping back in time. Rue de l’Hirondelle translates to “Swallow Street”. Its name likely comes from a shop sign depicting a swallow, known as “arondale” in old French. Over the centuries, the street has borne several names, each echoing the swallow motif: Rue Arrondale-en-Laas, Rue Hyrondale, Rue de Lyrundelle, and Rue d’Irondelle. Guillot de Paris, in his 13th-century work “Le Dit des rues de Paris”, refers to it as Rue Hérondale. At number 20-22 Rue de l’Hirondelle, you’ll find the Hôtel de la Salamandre. This building boasts two bas-reliefs of a salamander. This was the emblem of King François I, leading to legends connecting the building to him. The Société historique du VIe arrondissement, however, suggests these reliefs may be later additions. Perhaps they were taken from earlier buildings or are replicas designed to perpetuate the royal connection. The street also holds literary connections. The cabaret La Bolée, later known as La Vénus noire, stood at number 25. This was a haunt for artists and writers like Charles Baudelaire, Jeanne Duval, Pierre Mac Orlan, Francis Carco, Robert Desnos, and André Warnod. Imagine them gathered here, exchanging ideas and stories, inspired by the ambiance of this unique street. Even the renowned surgeon Ambroise Paré once had a shop at Rue de l’Hirondelle, although it was located in the section lost during the creation of Place Saint-Michel. He ran an apothecary shop under the sign of the Three Basins around 1541. Today, a whimsical inscription on a building at the corner of Rue Gît-le-Cœur still spells the name as “rue de lirondelle”, a charming reminder of the street’s enduring presence in the heart of Paris.