Rue de la Cossonnerie

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Here stands a street that has borne witness to centuries of Parisian life. This is the Rue de la Cossonnerie. Today, it is a vibrant mix of shops and cafes. Its story stretches back to the Middle Ages.

The Rue de la Cossonnerie is nestled in the 1st arrondissement. It sits in the historic Halles district. This 106-meter-long street connects Boulevard de Sebastopol and Rue Pierre-Lescot. The name “Cossonnerie” has a debated origin. Henri Sauval thought “cossonnerie” meant “poultry house” in old language. Jacques Hillairet suggested it came from sellers of “cossons”. Edgar Mareuse believed it was a corruption of “via Cochoneria”. This meant a street where pigs were sold.

Records show the street existed as early as 1183. Back then, it was known as via Cochonneria. By 1300, it had become known as Rue de la Coçonnerie. The street is even mentioned in Guillot de Paris’s “Le Dit des rues de Paris”. It appeared under the name Rue de la Cossonnerie.

Henri Sauval wrote about the street’s past. He said that “cossonniers” and “cossonnerie” meant poultry sellers. He learned from elders that the street hosted a market for pigs and poultry on certain days. They remembered seeing chickens and capons displayed in baskets. This was similar to the poultry markets at Vallée-de-Misère and Quai des Augustins. Sauval also found an ordinance. It forbade merchants from going ahead of time to meet the goods.

A ministerial decision in the early 19th century fixed the street’s width. It was set at 10 meters. In that era, the Rue de la Cossonnerie was 138 meters long. It started at Rue Saint-Denis and ended at Rue du Marché-aux-Poirées. The street numbers were painted red.

The side with odd numbers ran along the Halle aux poissons d’eau douce. This freshwater fish market was demolished in 1859. The section between Rue Saint-Denis and Boulevard de Sebastopol was opened that same year. It replaced the Cour Batave.

The Rue de la Cossonnerie was a site of revelry during Mid-Lent in the 17th century. Festivities centered around a sign depicting a spinning sow. This was located at number 24. Edmond Beaurepaire described the scene. Shop boys, apprentices, servants, and porters engaged in “follies”. They were considered “souvenirs of paganism”. New apprentices and artisans were forced to kiss the sow. Their noses were bumped against the stone. The area was filled with dancing, shouting, and drinking. The 16th-century sign is now housed in the Musée de Cluny.

In more recent times, the Rue de la Cossonnerie has appeared on the silver screen. Some scenes from Bernardo Bertolucci’s 1972 film “Last Tango in Paris” were filmed here.

Today, the street faces new challenges. There was a debate about trees lining the street. The city needed to ensure emergency vehicles could pass. Some trees were removed. The city planned to replace them with flowering pear trees. The height of these trees would meet the fire department’s requirements.

The Rue de la Cossonnerie is a microcosm of Paris itself. It blends history, commerce, and daily life. The echoes of poultry markets and Mid-Lent festivals linger. They blend with the sounds of modern Paris. As you stroll along this street, remember its long and vibrant past. It is a testament to the enduring spirit of Paris.

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