Lost in the heart of Paris is Rue de Brie. This street holds secrets that time and the city’s evolution have carefully guarded.
Rue de Brie itself might not be the most famous Parisian street. Yet, it stands as a testament to the city’s overlooked history. The area surrounding it, known as Les Gobelins, is a treasure trove of stories. Many tourists miss this neighborhood when they don’t venture past the 5th arrondissement.
Les Gobelins derives its name from the royal tapestry factory. This factory has been a fixture since the early 17th century. Back then, ornate rugs weren’t just for floors. They adorned walls too. The Manufacture des Gobelins museum can be a bit dull. But from time to time, it does host interesting expositions. What truly captivates here are the buildings and areas behind the museum’s facade. These are usually off-limits to the public.
Rue Berbier du Metz is directly behind the Manufacture des Gobelins. It is named after the former head of the Mobilier Nationale. This place is France’s equivalent of a grandpa’s shed. Old furniture is stored with the hope of someday being reupholstered.
Before 1935, Rue de Brie was known as the ruelle des Gobelins. It dates back to the 16th century. Comparing it on old maps shows how little its shape has changed over the centuries.
Once upon a time, Rue de Brie was one of the stinkiest streets in Paris. A river flowed down its center. However, it was more of a septic tank than a quaint canal.
The waters of the Bievre attracted fabric dyers and tanners. These trades flourished here because of the river. Leather production is not a pretty process.
This river stank. It was a cesspool of nasty things. In 1912, they covered it with dirt and cobblestones. It was hidden away beneath the street. Old photos document this burial.
Today, the Bievre is mostly out of sight. However, a local association wants to restore it. They want to bring it back to its old glory, minus the odors.
Even the Saint Louis Chapel is nearby. It was built in 1723 for the Gobelins Factory. It is now a classified historic monument.
Exploring Rue de Brie offers more than meets the eye. It is a journey through time. It reveals hidden layers of Parisian life. The stink may be gone. The stories linger in the cobblestones.