“Stink Alley” may not sound appealing but that’s one translation of how Rue Mouffetard got its name. Now, we’re here on Rue Mouffetard one of Paris’s oldest and most vibrant streets. It’s a place brimming with history, charm, and delicious smells.
Rue Mouffetard has been around since Roman times. Imagine Romans marching down this very street on their way to Italy. Today, you are more likely to find tasty treats than roaming Romans.
Over the centuries, Rue Mouffetard has had many names. Locals affectionately call it “La Mouffe”. The name “Mouffetard” may come from the “mouffle” that is old French for “stink”. The stink came from the Bièvre river. Mills used to stand along the river.
Famous writers frequented Rue Mouffetard. Ernest Hemingway lived nearby. James Joyce finished Ulysses close to here. George Orwell also called this area home. Hemingway described Rue Mouffetard as a “wonderful narrow crowded market street”. He also called it a dirty, wet street full of drunkards.
You can still get water from an old fountain on Rue Mouffetard. It has been there since 1624. It still provides delicious water.
Henri Cartier-Bresson immortalized Rue Mouffetard in his famous photograph from 1954. He captured a boy carrying wine bottles on this very street.
Rue Mouffetard is known for its lively market. It offers fresh produce and diverse shops. The pastries and cheeses create lovely smells. You can easily spend hours here. Imagine sitting at Place de la Contrescarpe enjoying a café au lait. Watch people and admire the old houses. Envision Parisian life during the medieval years.
The street’s location on Sainte-Genevieve hill helped preserve its older style. It luckily escaped redevelopment.
Look up to see incredible frescoes and sculptures on several buildings. A water well dated 1624 stands at the junction of Rue du Pot. Église St Médard dates to the 9th century.
Rue Mouffetard is 605 meters long. Sunday afternoons are especially lively. Locals and visitors dance and sing by the Chapel of Saint-Médard. The busiest times are Saturday and Sunday mornings.
At number 6, you’ll see an 18th-century butcher shop with a striking red façade. It features low reliefs depicting oxen. At number 60, you can find the Fontaine du Pot au Fer, also known as Fontaine Mouffetard, dating back to 1624. The house at number 134 once had a façade adorned with captivating animal scenes.
Soak in the history and vibrant atmosphere of Rue Mouffetard. Take a stroll and appreciate why this street has charmed Parisians and visitors for centuries.