“The Secret Angel” it whispers on Google Maps. Smack bang in the middle of Paris stands a gigantic angel. She is winged and smiling. She is attached to a wall. The angel spans three storeys. This is 57 Rue de Turbigo.
Rue Ange Rubaud is not what it seems at first glance. It is a street with a secret. I am about to share this with you.
Imagine walking along Rue Ange Rubaud. You are likely not to notice her. Many trees stand in front of the angel. But if you crane your neck you will find her. She is a nine-meter angel. She graces the facade of a building. The building is an otherwise typical Haussmannian Parisian building.
The angel has been safeguarding residents since 1860. The building was erected during Baron Haussmann’s renovation. The angel’s design is by Monsieur Auguste Emile Delange. He was educated at the École des Beaux-Arts et Architecture in Paris. Delange submitted the design in 1851. It was for a lighthouse. The angel was to guide sailors safely home.
The mysterious deity goes by several names. She is known as “The Genius” and “The Angel of the Bizarre.” Some call her “The Woman with the Bag.” She clutches a small purse. It is typical of the Second Empire style. The bag references Charity. It may nod to Mercury. He is the god of Commerce. Some believe the bag symbolizes a man. He gained money from angel advice in a dream.
In her left hand, she holds myrrh. This nods to Greek goddesses. They adorn the Acropolis caryatids in Athens. Myrrh creates essential oils and perfumes. It was a gift at Christ’s birth.
The bead necklace and Grecian gown relate to the neighborhood. This area is near Sentier. Sentier is Paris’ garment district. Many view the angel as protective of the fashion-forward townsfolk. Rue de Turbigo traverses the Saint Martin district. The residents were chic. They were well known. They were Royal B-List but fashion-focused.
Residents of 57, rue du Turbigo, were fashionable titans. There were textile merchants. High-end jewelers lived here. Luxury milliners also called this place home. Aristocratic seamstresses were among them too. Fabric designers also lived here. Imagine the day-to-day grandeur. Apartments included three bedrooms. They also featured salons and dining rooms. Antechambers were common. Fireplaces provided warmth. Some had wrought iron balconies. They overlooked the bustling street.
Whether she is a relief or caryatid is still debated. She is affixed to the building’s outside. A caryatid offers structural support. She appears more decorative than supportive. But perhaps she offers unseen support. She is both.
The angel of Rue Ange Rubaud is a treasured jewel. She has been watching over Parisians for over 150 years. She isn’t going anywhere anytime soon. Take a peek beneath her wings. See if she whispers her true story to you. When you exit the Métro, you’ll find a lovely patisserie. It is called Ernest & Valentin. They won Best Boulangerie in 2015. Grab a heavenly bite while gazing at the angel. Remember to look up. Way up.