Can you imagine a bustling street lined with grand hôtels, each whispering tales of France’s elite? This is the Quartier d’Anjou, a place steeped in history and intrigue. The Quartier d’Anjou isn’t just a collection of buildings. It’s a living tapestry woven with threads of aristocracy, political maneuvering, and even literary genius. Built in 1649, the Rue d’Anjou, the heart of this quartier, quickly became home to more mansions than even 18th-century chroniclers could detail. Imagine ornate stone staircases, each step echoing with the footsteps of marquises and generals. Picture wrought-iron railings, twisting into intricate arabesques, framing windows that have witnessed centuries of Parisian life. Even today, the Quartier d’Anjou retains its air of grandeur. The very concierges, perhaps the slimmest and baldest in Paris, still call themselves “Suisses,” a title harkening back to the time of the Restoration.
The Quartier d’Anjou boasts a fascinating cast of characters. Mme de Polignac, the Duchess d’Esclignac, General Lafayette, and the Marquis de Louvois all graced these streets with their presence. The Hôtel Contades, initially known as the Hôtel de Lorraine, housed François-Armand de Lorraine, Bishop of Bayeux. He died there in 1728, aged 64. Another resident, the Duchess d’Esclignac, lived a life of extraordinary wealth but was plagued by anxieties fueled by newspaper reports. Fearful of everything from mad dogs to sea serpents, she even banished her own pack of hounds.
One of the most remarkable figures of the Quartier d’Anjou was the Marquise de Crèqui, a woman who lived to be over one hundred years old. She had been presented to several queens before Marie Antoinette, and famously remarked to Napoleon that she never imagined Marie Antoinette’s court would be the last. Napoleon, piqued by her frankness, retorted with a barbed comment about her possibly knowing the infamous highwayman Cartouche. However, he later returned her confiscated forests after this lively exchange. Another anecdote involving the Marquise tells of her chef, who was the brother of her chambermaid. This chambermaid had a bright daughter who married a young lawyer named Roland. The Marquise, unimpressed, quipped about the lawyer dropping his hat in the dripping pan. This same lawyer later became a liberal journalist and then Chancellor of France, his wife taking the name Mme Roland de la Platière. When Mme Roland visited the elderly Marquise, she was greeted with the dismissive command, “Pauline, ring for your mother; I need her.” Thus, the Quartier d’Anjou witnessed the birth of a powerful enemy to the French aristocracy.
The Quartier d’Anjou isn’t just about nobility. The philosopher Helvétius, son of the court physician, also lived here. He resigned from a lucrative position to marry and dedicate himself to intellectual pursuits. His book, “De l’esprit,” earned him posthumous praise during the Revolution.
As you stroll through the Quartier d’Anjou, remember the layers of history beneath your feet. From aristocratic dramas to philosophical ponderings, this quartier resonates with the echoes of lives lived to the fullest. It’s a place where the past isn’t just remembered. It’s felt.