Perhaps you have heard the locals call it Praça Vanhargem. But we know it better as Praça Varnhagen. This square in Tijuca has a story that is as rich as the aroma of the botecos surrounding it.
Praça Varnhagen is named after Francisco Adolfo de Varnhagen. He was a military man, a diplomat, and a historian. He penned “História Geral do Brasil”. Many consider it the greatest historical work on colonial Brazil.
Once upon a time around 1990, this very spot was known as Praça dos Passarinhos. It earned this name because of the bird trade that thrived here. Weekends saw a bustling fair of birds. But the birds have flown. The fair relocated to the São Francisco Xavier subway station.
The early 2000s brought a new identity to Praça Varnhagen. Bars and restaurants began to sprout up. Nightclubs added to the mix. It became a hub for food lovers in the Tijuca area. The “Baixo Tijuca” nightlife was reborn. Rua Almirante João Cândido Brasil became a hotspot for new establishments.
But Praça Varnhagen isn’t just about nightlife. During the day, families flock here. Children enjoy the playground. Dogs on leashes prance around. Seniors work out in the fitness area. People relax on the benches.
Look closely at those benches. They are simple concrete blocks. However their simplicity is part of their charm. The old fountain area now attracts skaters, especially beginners. You can also spot some skateboarders.
There’s something you cannot see. Underneath this square lies a secret. In 2016, then-mayor Eduardo Paes inaugurated a hidden reservoir. It is a “piscinão” or big pool to collect rainwater. This underground reservoir covers 3,502 square meters. It can hold 43 million liters of water.
Pumps control the flow of water from the Maracanã River. This prevents flooding in the surrounding areas. Praça Varnhagen’s “piscinão” is part of a larger flood control program for Grande Tijuca. Other reservoirs exist under Praça da Bandeira and Praça Niterói.
On the same day as the reservoir opening, Praça Varnhagen also unveiled its renovations. It now features a senior fitness area. There are also areas for general exercise and weight training. You can find baby changing stations, game tables, and a children’s playground.
If you are looking for nearby points of interest, there’s Aldeia Campista. You can also find Buxixo Choperia. Bar e Restaurante Garota da Tijuca is another option. And of course, there is Bar Varnhagen itself.
So next time you are at Praça Varnhagen, remember its layers. From birds to bars, from history books to hidden reservoirs. This square embodies the spirit of Tijuca. It’s a place where families gather, friends connect, and the city breathes.