Did you know that Praca do Carmo in Rio de Janeiro once hosted a bustling convent? The Praca do Carmo isn’t just a square. It’s a living testament to Rio’s rich history. Imagine the Carmelite friars arriving in 1590. They chose this very spot to build their convent. The original church wasn’t on this precise location. It started as a small hermitage dedicated to Our Lady of the Olive Tree. The hermitage was near Morro do Castelo the city’s original nucleus. The Carmelite order took over this small chapel. In 1619 they began building their impressive convent.
The rectangular structure you see today is just part of the original complex. The ground floor and the first floor date back to the 17th century. These levels feature straight arches a hallmark of that era. The second floor is from the 18th century before 1760. It’s similar in style to the Teles de Meneses mansion. Both have arched windows with balconies. A large archway led into the convent’s courtyard.
When the Portuguese royal court arrived in 1808 everything changed. The building became home to Queen Maria I and her entourage. A special walkway was built to connect the convent to the royal palace. The conventual church itself was rebuilt after the original chapel collapsed in 1761. Prince Regent requested it as the royal chapel. Its interior decoration wasn’t even finished. It’s a single rectangular nave church with arcades. It also has galleries and a deep chancel. The arcades were later turned into side chapels in the 19th century.
The decoration is stunning. It showcases the exuberant Rococo style typical of Rio. The carvings in the transept nave and chancel are by Inacio Ferreira Pinto. He completed this work in the 18th century. The side chapels were decorated in the 19th century by the German artist Thomas Driendl. He used similar Rococo motifs. The only exception is the chapel of the Blessed Sacrament which is Neoclassical. The paintings of the apostles between the galleries are by Jose Leandro de Carvalho. In 1997 renovations were carried out with help from the Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation.
Today the Praca do Carmo stands as a symbol of resilience and transformation. The original convent may have undergone changes but its spirit endures in this lively square. It whispers stories of queens friars and a city’s evolution. So take a moment. Absorb the atmosphere. Let the Praca do Carmo’s history transport you.